Info about Lizard's Mouth & Potter's Point (Santa Barbara)

Planning a trip to Santa Barbara and had some logistics questions. The plan is to either go to Lizard's Mouth or Potter's Point. We would only be bouldering.

1. Which do you recommend for a weekend trip: Lizard's Mouth or Potter's Point? For context, one climber is in V8 range and other climber is in V5 range. It looks like there are enough routes in each location to occupy my friends and I for a couple days so unless there is a great reason to do both locations, we will likely only do one spot.

2. I haven't been able to find anything about parking at either location. Is there a nearby parking area/side road near either place? Or do you have to park far away and hike in?

3. Is there any locations nearby that we could camp at? It would be one car and a three person tent.

Marty Soupcoff wrote:Planning a trip to Santa Barbara and had some logistics questions. The plan is to either go to Lizard's Mouth or Potter's Point. We would only be bouldering. 1. Which do you recommend for a weekend trip: Lizard's Mouth or Potter's Point? For context, one climber is in V8 range and other climber is in V5 range. It looks like there are enough routes in each location to occupy my friends and I for a couple days so unless there is a great reason to do both locations, we will likely only do one spot. 2. I haven't been able to find anything about parking at either location. Is there a nearby parking area/side road near either place? Or do you have to park far away and hike in? 3. Is there any locations nearby that we could camp at? It would be one car and a three person tent.

haven't been to potter's point but I can tell you about lizard's mouth.

There is a place to park your car alongside the road. the approach from the parking spot to the boulders is like 5 minutes on flat terrain(I would bring at least sandals though). If you go to lizards mouth you also have the brickyard which is about a quarter mile away.

I can't really help you much on the camping but I have seen people camped out at lizards mouth and have left their car on the roadside parking spot. I don't think it's too big of an issue, just make sure you pack out your trash.

PS: there is a shooting range near lizard's mouth so if the sound of gunfire bothers you then potter's point might be the way to go.

I would go to Brickyard. There isn't too much in the V8 range but there is some. The problems are really quality. Lots in the V3 to V5 range. Lizards Mouth is alright too. Hike ins are maybe 5-10 minutes.

Potter's Point is not my favorite. Longer hike in uphill. Rock is chossy. But some climbers like it because they say there's more hard stuff.

Painted cave has some fun stuff too, though only two boulders.

As for camping, I've camped off paradise road off the 154 north of Lizards Mouth. Not sure if there are campsites any closer.

If you're going to be in town for a couple days just hit up all three areas, LM and Brickyard are five minutes away from each other and Potter's is maybe half an hour drive. Highly recommend Dancing Outlaw at the Brickyard