Another Accident due to mis-use of the Gri-gri
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Ana Tine wrote:I'd like people to offer potential solutions on HOW to make the grigri better.Good people with experience already have. The Edelrid Eddy is an example: edelrid.de/en/Edelrid/Sport… The device design embodies the understanding that the natural panic response is to pull harder on the lever. With the Eddy, the cam does indeed release as the Eddy's lever is pulled back. But the belayer has to stop mid-stroke to keep the cam released. If the lever is pulled beyond that point, the device goes back to assisted-braking mode. And there are other well-thought out belay devices ... and accidents with them as well, just like with the Eddy and GriGri. All that said, I'm more aligned with safe practicing under good mentorship - regardless of the device ... that coupled with checking your belayer's competency first ... and a pattern of safety checks. It can not be left up to the engineers to prevent all belay accidents. They'll never do it despite future improvements. |
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Dobson wrote: "Cleave" happens to be one of those interesting words that is its own antonym. It is being used correctly in the above statement. (it's the first definition) i.word.com/idictionary/cleaveHuh, that's actually pretty interesting. Thanks for the note Dobson! |
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John Byrnes wrote: The point, which you insist on ignoring, is that grabbing the climbers-side will prevent the Gri-gri from locking even with the brake hand firmly applied. ... what seems to be the root cause is when the belayer grabs the climbers-side with slightly more force than the brake hand. Apparently, the absolute grip-forces don't matter, it's the differential that does.John - I don't think the force of the brake hand is necessarily critical. Ultimately, it's the force on the cam, so I think it's the force of the fall being reduced by the force from the climbers-side hand (or friction from a roof, traverse, etc. or a loosely held brake hand) that matters. Then the "tug" on the Grigri isn't hard enough to engage the cam. Other variables contribute: diameter of the rope, slickness, being pulled off the ground, etc. The failure to engage could happen whether your brake hand is off the rope or choking it with a death grip. Again, I refer back to my experience in Maple -- slick new rope, friction on a long pitch, rope out to clip, light belayer. The rope was slowly slipping through the Grigri in spite of Steph's hand clenching the brake side, until Steph tugged on it. Once you are catching a fall with an open cam, the force of the brake hand matters, but as we've seen, the Grigri doesn't act like an ATC and doesn't help much with the cam open. I can't lower my partners who are 80 lbs heavier than me with control under those conditions, even with a death grip. And again, Steph and I handled the actual rope and Grigri involved in Jim's accident. She could feed the rope through incredibly quickly, holding the rope ATC-style. Sure she wasn't locking down with her brake hand, but sharp tugs that I would have expected to lock a Grigri weren't enough to lock this one with this rope. |
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Brian wrote: |
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sorry i keep using the word 'break' instead of 'brake'. the older i get i seem to do this more often. apparently this makes me ineligible to recommend applying a firm grip to the brake side. |
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Mort wrote: John - I don't think the force of the brake hand is necessarily critical. Ultimately, it's the force on the cam, so I think it's the force of the fall being reduced by the force from the climbers-side hand (or friction from a roof, traverse, etc. or a loosely held brake hand) that matters. Then the "tug" on the Grigri isn't hard enough to engage the cam.I think you mean grip force on the rope and force on the cam. The latter more or less only depends on the cam spring tension and brake force (that you can measure by tying a weight to the brake side of the rope like what Greg D has done, except w/o clamping the cam open). When you are "tugging" the Grigri, you are still relying on rope friction for you to exert enough brake force (or the rope with just slip thru). However, you CAN engage the cam by pulling both ends of the rope in opposite directions, w/o any tugging, even with a slick rope. I have on occasion done that in anticipation of a fall; I'm not sure it's necessary or even detrimental. Mort wrote: And again, Steph and I handled the actual rope and Grigri involved in Jim's accident. She could feed the rope through incredibly quickly, holding the rope ATC-style. Sure she wasn't locking down with her brake hand, but sharp tugs that I would have expected to lock a Grigri weren't enough to lock this one with this rope.I would be uncomfortable belaying someone with that setup, especially if the climber outweighs me by a lot. But given the situation, I'm not sure I'd have just not climbed. |
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Mort wrote: Sure she wasn't locking down with her brake hand, but sharp tugs that I would have expected to lock a Grigri weren't enough to lock this one with this rope.I once had a Sterling Velocity 9.8 that would creep through ATCs and an old style GriGris. Since it wasn't the min 10mm dia I couldn't fault the grigri but the creep on the act was scary. Sterling sent me a new rope after lots of complaining about it being unsafe and not wanting to climb on it. I could easily see non-spec ropes with dry treatments not activating the cam. |
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I think the whole discussion may and should have moved away from the terrible accident to Jim that initiated the thread to a general consideration of optimal belaying technique with a Grigri. So Id like to take a slightly different tack, which I hope will be useful for belayers and which is not meant in the spirit of any kind of argument. |
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The "solution" is simple |
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bearbreeder wrote:The "solution" is simple Belay with an ATC once in a while and catch whippers on it just to practice a solid brake hand As ive said over and over again, there is a tendency for folks who always belay with a grigri/smart/etc to get lazy with the brake hand as the device "does the work" No doubt quite a few folks here will deny this ... But simply go to your local gym or crag and see the multitude of folks wih grigri/smarts whose brake hand is doing god knows what in which position With an ATC youre forced to keep the rope in the proper position, or folks get dropped pretty quick I used a smart exclusively for over a year until i took the brake hand for granted that i unconsciously let go on a rappel Of course this is just lazy farts yapping away on MP ... In the real world folks will keep dropping each other as belaying is boring, until something bad happensExcept having a hand on the climber's end is how you pay out and take in slack quickly with the ATC. When a fall happens you hold on to the climbers end to stay in control of the belay and keep your body up right. As long as you hold on and pull the brake hand back, everything is fine. And doing that with the Grigri is going to kill someone now? So should we take your advice and practice with the ATC or not? I would say no, learn to use each device as intended. Making assumptions because you learned how to use a tube style device and expect that all device to conform to that style of belaying is where things can go wrong. Besides, trying to feed out rope with a GriGri like an ATC is not going to work too well, so you have to learn GriGri specific techniques anyway. The thing that rubs me the wrong way about this thread is there are conflicting eye witness accounts. Byrnes says burns on both hands; Mort says only on the brake hand. And people start blaming a good device saying it's well known that you can't put a hand on the climber's rope when that's not the root cause at all. Mort wrote:And again, Steph and I handled the actual rope and Grigri involved in Jim's accident. She could feed the rope through incredibly quickly, holding the rope ATC-style. Sure she wasn't locking down with her brake hand, but sharp tugs that I would have expected to lock a Grigri weren't enough to lock this one with this rope.Petzl does say that rope diameter on the device isn't absolute. It also depends on the coating and the rope itself. It seems like that's the culprit, not using a compatible rope and not double checking the setup; not whether the belayer had a hand on the climber's rope (which doesn't even seem like it from the lack of burns). Besides, it's impossible for me to believe that a 15 year old girl could have the grip and arm strength to slow down the rope so much to override the cam. Can it happen? Sure, if you do enough testing you will come up with a number at which the cam no longer engages. Was that number reached on an overhanging route, on a humid day, with slick new rope held by a 15 year old? No, I don't think so. You are taking about slowing down a 180 to 200 pound man whipping through the air with your bare hand. With one single hand. So please, it's far from certain that having a hand on the climber's rope is a precondition to having a belay accident. I agree with the overall message to be vigilant while belaying, but damn, if the Gri gri is so damn sensitive no one would still be using it today. Much less second generation be made. Stop spreading FUD. It seems like Jim's supporters don't want to admit the ugly truth that it was human error and I can understand that because it is an unfortunate accident that I'm sure will forever change him and his family, but please don't turn this into an opportunity to spread false information; you are literally telling the entire climbing population that uses a Grigri that we are doing it wrong. |
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Old Sag wrote: Except having a hand on the climber's end is how you pay out and take in slack quickly with the ATC. When a fall happens you hold on to the climbers end to stay in control of the belay and keep your body up right. As long as you hold on and pull the brake hand back, everything is fine. And doing that with the Grigri is going to kill someone now? So should we take your advice and practice with the ATC or not? I would say no, learn to use each device as intended. Making assumptions because you learned how to use a tube style device and expect that all device to conform to that style of belaying is where things can go wrong. Besides, trying to feed out rope with a GriGri like an ATC is not going to work too well, so you have to learn GriGri specific techniques anyway. The thing that rubs me the wrong way about this thread is there are conflicting eye witness accounts. Byrnes says burns on both hands; Mort says only on the brake hand. And people start blaming a good device saying it's well known that you can't put a hand on the climber's rope when that's not the root cause at all. Petzl does say that rope diameter on the device isn't absolute. It also depends on the coating and the rope itself. It seems like that's the culprit, not using a compatible rope and not double checking the setup; not whether the belayer had a hand on the climber's rope (which doesn't even seem like it from the lack of burns). Besides, it's impossible for me to believe that a 15 year old girl could have the grip and arm strength to slow down the rope so much to override the cam. Can it happen? Sure, if you do enough testing you will come up with a number at which the cam no longer engages. Was that number reached on an overhanging route, on a humid day, with slick new rope held by a 15 year old? No, I don't think so. You are taking about slowing down a 180 to 200 pound man whipping through the air with your bare hand. With one single hand. So please, it's far from certain that having a hand on the climber's rope is a precondition to having a belay accident. I agree with the overall message to be vigilant while belaying, but damn, if the Gri gri is so damn sensitive no one would still be using it today. Much less second generation be made. Stop spreading FUD. It seems like Jim's supporters don't want to admit the ugly truth that it was human error and I can understand that because it is an unfortunate accident that I'm sure will forever change him and his family, but please don't turn this into an opportunity to spread false information; you are literally telling the entire climbing population that uses a Grigri that we are doing it wrong.No You do NOT need to grasp the climbers strand hard to brake with an ATC You do NOT need to grasp the climbers strand hard to keep upright In fact petzl warns about gripping the climbers strand hard in a fall with the reverso if you want to hold it LIGHTLY thats yr choice, but there is absolutely no reason to grasp it HARD If you cant keep upright catching with an ATC without grasping the climbers strand hard, i suggest going back to the basics and relearning it The braking position with a gri gri (and the smart) is the same as an ATC Feeding the grigri like an ATC is EXACTLY what you should do Petzl recommends the "fast feed" method for the grigri only for quick clips, the rest of the time its the exact feed method as the ATC The problem is that many if not most folks tend to use it on a permanant basis ... |
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Jim daughter was 13 not 15 |
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bearbreeder wrote: No You do NOT need to grasp the climbers strand hard to brake with an ATC You do NOT need to grasp the climbers strand hard to keep upright In fact petzl warns about gripping the climbers strand hard in a fall with the reverso if you want to hold it LIGHTLY thats yr choice, but there is absolutely no reason to grasp it HARD If you cant keep upright catching with an ATC without grasping the climbers strand hard, i suggest going back to the basics and relearning it The braking position with a gri gri (and the smart) is the same as an ATC Feeding the grigri like an ATC is EXACTLY what you should do Petzl recommends the "fast feed" method for the grigri only for quick clips, the rest of the time its the exact feed method as the ATC The problem is that many if not most folks tend to use it on a permanant basis ...I never said hard death grip. And even a hard death grip I don't think your skin and grip can make that much friction with the rope to make a dent into the falling force of a person. If you can, we would hear a lot more about how someone was saved by his belayer's bare hands or slowing them down enough to prevent death, etc. No, that does not happen. You can teach a newbie how to belay with a gri and never teach that person ATC and he will belay just fine as long as you tell him to pay attention, understand to hold the brake hand tightly and keep it down towards the hip, etc. You can teach them the motions of an ATC on a Gri, if you want. The petzl instructions do not say "understanding with an ATC is a prerequisite to belaying with the grigri." Feeding is theoretically the same, but in practice they are different when you need to feed slack quickly, which is often. Besides, I can pull hard with the ATC to feed slack, but if I do the same I will lock up the cam, causing me to short rope the climber. So in practice, not the same. If you want to be safe and take your hand off the rope as soon as you are done, that's fine and it is your choice, but it is by no means a contributing factor to this accident. So please stop telling people that we're doing it all wrong and using this unrelated accident to your advantage. |
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Old Sag wrote: I never said hard death grip. And even a hard death grip I don't think your skin and grip can make that much friction with the rope to make a dent into the falling force of a person. If you can, we would hear a lot more about how someone was saved by his belayer's bare hands or slowing them down enough to prevent death, etc. No, that does not happen. You can teach a newbie how to belay with a gri and never teach that person ATC and he will belay just fine as long as you tell him to pay attention, understand to hold the brake hand tightly and keep it down towards the hip, etc. You can teach them the motions of an ATC on a Gri, if you want. The petzl instructions do not say "understanding with an ATC is a prerequisite to belaying with the grigri." Feeding is theoretically the same, but in practice they are different when you need to feed slack quickly, which is often. Besides, I can pull hard with the ATC to feed slack, but if I do the same I will lock up the cam, causing me to short rope the climber. So in practice, not the same. If you want to be safe and take your hand off the rope as soon as you are done, that's fine and it is your choice, but it is by no means a contributing factor to this accident. So please stop telling people that we're doing it all wrong and using this unrelated accident to your advantage.on gripping the climber side of the rope tightly ... around 5 minutes in ... "avoid gripping the climbers side of the rope too tightly, as you run the risk of reducing the reversos braking ability" http://vimeo.com/80477504 on using the grigri just like an ATC as the primary belay method "this technique is the same for all petzl belay devices, just like when belaying with a tube style device or reverso ... this is the primary belay position" vimeo.com/80481246 please stop telling folks unsafe belay techniques are fine ... no your DONT grab the climbers side tightly as petzl clearly does not recommend it for the grigri or the ATC and yes you DO belay primarily with the grigri just like an ATC if you follow peztl if you are only trying to pull hard with your climbers side hand on an ATC youre doing it wrong ... its a pull AND push just like the showed in the video ... if you belay alot with an ATC you would know this from the petzl video again ... "this technique remains the same throughout ALL PETZL BELAY DEVICES" petzl how to belay with a reverso "this technique remains the same throughout ALL PETZL BELAY DEVICES" folks ... just watch the darn petzl videos and follow the instructions ... that and practicing a solid brake hand and you wont drop anyone as this conversation shows even experienced MPers cant admit when they are doing something wrong ... |
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I'm hoping that this is my final post on this topic because it seems that after rgold's last post, there's little more to discuss. I think he's spot-on. |
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bearbreeder wrote: on gripping the climber side of the rope tightly ... around 5 minutes in ... "avoid gripping the climbers side of the rope too tightly, as you run the risk of reducing the reversos braking ability" vimeo.com/80477504 on using the grigri just like an ATC as the primary belay method "this technique is the same for all petzl belay devices, just like when belaying with a tube style device or reverso ... this is the primary belay position" vimeo.com/80481246 please stop telling folks unsafe belay techniques are fine ... no your DONT grab the climbers side tightly as petzl clearly does not recommend it for the grigri or the ATC and yes you DO belay primarily with the grigri just like an ATC if you follow peztl if you are only trying to pull hard with your climbers side hand on an ATC youre doing it wrong ... its a pull AND push just like the showed in the video ... if you belay alot with an ATC you would know this from the petzl video again ... "this technique remains the same throughout ALL PETZL BELAY DEVICES" folks ... just watch the darn petzl videos and follow the instructions ... that and practicing a solid brake hand and you wont drop anyone as this conversation shows even experienced MPers cant admit when they are doing something wrong ...I never said to grip tightly on the climber end. You did. Over and over again. You constructed an easy straw-man and reworded my comments and also ignored most of what I said. I don't think death gripping the climber's end is a good habit, but I don't think it's also a death sentence. It is discouraged because you end up forgetting about the brake hand if you grip too tightly with the other hand, and that causes the accident, not because you have a hand on the climber's end. My point is: What evidence do you have to show that having a hand on the climber's rope caused *this* accident? If you have something against having a hand on the climber's rope then start another thread and do a PSA there. And no, you don't belay the same with the Gri gri and the ATC. If you do, there is no need to go back and periodically practice with the ATC catching big falls, is there? Again, in theory you do, but in practice I can lock up the gri gri at will and have to adjust for that. You can't do that with the ATC. |
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Old Sag wrote: I never said to grip tightly on the climber end. You did. Over and over again. You constructed an easy straw-man and reworded my comments and also ignored most of what I said. I don't think death gripping the climber's end is a good habit, but I don't think it's also a death sentence. It is discouraged because you end up forgetting about the brake hand if you grip too tightly with the other hand, and that causes the accident, not because you have a hand on the climber's end. My point is: What evidence do you have to show that having a hand on the climber's rope caused *this* accident? If you have something against having a hand on the climber's rope then start another thread and do a PSA there. And no, you don't belay the same with the Gri gri and the ATC. If you do, there is no need to go back and periodically practice with the ATC catching big falls, is there? Again, in theory you do, but in practice I can lock up the gri gri at will and have to adjust for that. You can't do that with the ATC.this ENTIRE thread debating off the OPs description about the belayer gripping the climbers side .. and yet yr attacking me about it???? and yes your PRIMARY belay position with a grigri is the same as an ATC if youre using it correctly as per petzl if you use the fast feed method then only do so briefly as per petzl, and immediately return to the brake position if you are using an ATC properly ... you can "lock up at will" .. just use your brake hand, if you cant lock it up stop belaying someone youll drop someone regardless my suggestion about beginners use an ATC, and old geezers periodically re-use one is to keep the BRAKE HAND IN PRACTICE regardless of which way you feed this is what matters .... if you bothered reading you would see this, but then "You constructed an easy straw-man and reworded my comments and also ignored most of what I said. " ive posted video instructions, accident reports, etc related to the OPs description over and over again in this thread ... and get attacked thats MP for ya now !!! |
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Straw man and ad hominem argumentation on MP!!!!??? |
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bearbreeder wrote: this ENTIRE thread debating off the OPs description about the belayer gripping the climbers side .. and yet yr attacking me about it????Yeah but OP's account got revised and updated with other accounts. I thought you would have picked up on that. No burns on the left hand, slick rope, etc. So why are you still harping on something is no longer a factor in this accident? By the way, I am well aware of the blurb in the petzl video about not holding the climber's rope. But the climbers in their videos do another thing entirely. So it's one of those "do what I say, not what I do?" That's not very responsible of them. And, even if the belayer had burns on both hands, that just means that she was holding the climbing rope. You don't need to death grip a fast moving rope to get burns. Don't believe me? You can drop a free weight from top rope and you will get rope burns. No need to grip it hard. Just try it if you don't believe me. It doesn't mean it's the cause of the accident, just a RESULT of having an accident. There is a difference. No hard feelings bearbreeder. |
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Old Sag wrote: Yeah but OP's account got revised and updated with other accounts. I thought you would have picked up on that. No burns on the left hand, slick rope, etc. So why are you still harping on something is no longer a factor in this accident? By the way, I am well aware of the blurb in the petzl video about not holding the climber's rope. But the climbers in their videos do another thing entirely. So it's one of those "do what I say, not what I do?" That's not very responsible of them. And, even if the belayer had burns on both hands, that just means that she was holding the climbing rope. You don't need to death grip a fast moving rope to get burns. Don't believe me? You can drop a free weight from top rope and you will get rope burns. No need to grip it hard. Just try it if you don't believe me. It doesn't mean it's the cause of the accident, just a RESULT of having an accident. There is a difference. No hard feelings bearbreeder.if you read the last few post before your intervention where you came out swinging about the climbers strand you will notice that i said, and have been saying over and over again that a SOLID BRAKE HAND is something that should be done regardless of whatever feed method you use ... whether you grip the climber side lightly or not petzl themselves state that a solid brake hand is what will insure the grigri catches (and not blocking the cam or reducing its motion through grabbing the climber side tightly) THATS what im harping on ... train the brake hand which is something you tend not to do very well with grigris/smarts/etc, folks get lazy or never learn ... as you usually feel a minimal if any weight on the brake strand, you tend not to develop a FIRM grip keep in mind that i use a smart for ~80% of my belaying ... however im very aware of the risks that using grigri or smart poses i got on a grigri this entire week at the crag ... many of my partners use grigris, but they are all competent and proficient in catching with an ATC as well if you want a good explanation read rgolds post on the last page ... he explains it better than i ever would |