Smith Rock in Summer

I am making a trip to Smith rock this summer, Ive never been and am looking for local knowledge on the must do routes. I will have a guide book but That doesn't always help on whats best. Mainly bolted routes as my rack is not very big, hopefully that'll change by June. Let me have it everyone!

I Lead comfortably 5.10, 5.7 Trad

I live just north of Smith Rock, climbed there about 40 years. When in the summer are you planning your trip? How long are you going to be hear?

ill be in oregon around the 13th of june and there for 3 or 4 days

If you run out of good climbers to climb with look us up at the visitor center. We will be back there for our third year of climbing, working the visitor center and living on the state park grounds. We will be there May 1 through June 30.

awesome! thank you

Smith Classics,

Where ever I may roam, (if you can get there early to get in line)
Spider man buttress (5.7-8 trad)
5 gallon buckets, (really anything there on the morning glory wall, there is a good 5.8 5.9 5.10 left to right)
Phone call from satan (5.9) is really good.

to name a few.

+1 for Spider Man and Wherever I May Roam, also Screaming Yellow Zonkers 5.10b and Moons of Pluto 5.10d are excellent single pitch sport climbs (all of these are on the backside).

Smith will be hot in summer and you will want to chase the shade. That means backside routes (West side of Smith Rock Group, Spiderman Butt, Mesa Verde, Monkey Face) in the morning and then the E face on the Smith Rock Group or Redwall in the evening. The Lower Gorge can be nice too but that is mostly 5.10 trad and up. You will probably want to avoid the main area most of the day as it is south facing, but weather here is also changeable so you never know.

If you want to work on your multi-pitch trad I highly recommend Moscow and Superslab on Redwall (5.6 3 pitch classics). There are also some good 5.10 sport routes along the base that are worth checking out afterwards. On the Smith Rock Group there are several fun sport routes in your range on Phoenix Wall, and if you want to try a 5.11a Entering Relativity is just around the corner on Llama Wall and is very closely bolted and pretty easy for the grade.

I hope you enjoy your visit. I live 30 minutes away so feel free to contact me if you are looking for a partner or more ideas.

Sam

I second the Moscow/Super Slab suggestion, linking those two is a great way to spend an afternoon. You will absolutely want to chase the shade during the summer. I would say the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face is an must-do, but get there before the sun hits Bohn Street or you will be frying. Also the North Point and the lower/upper gorge are great places to dodge the heat, there's some awesome crack climbing thataway.

Here are some of my trad suggestions:

Climb Friday's Jinx, scramble over the formation down to the start of Spiderman, climb Spiderman, rappel back you your packs at the base of Friday's Jinx. It's a fun linkup and makes for a good day. I did not see a reason for the R rating on Friday's Jinx in the guidebook, but be aware. Maybe do this the other way around for best shade.

Sky Chimney is fun, skip the belay hole (top of P2) by linking pitches 2&3 if you can. Watch loose sand/gravel on the ledge top out.

Lion's Jaw, good one to test your 5.8 tad skills

In summer you might be chasing shade.

Be sure to check the Raptor closures; either on the internet or at the visitor center.