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I have two weeks, where would you go?

Original Post
Clos · · newhall · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

I have two weeks in april, amy, june time frame and want do a climbing trip some place really special. I have been climbing for 20+ years I'm a solid 11a sport and 10b/c trad and have climbed a lot in Jtree, Yosemite, Tahquitz and many other fantastic places, here in the USA, I want to travel out side the states.

I'm looking for a cool place to go tell me where i can find great sport routes and fun. tell me where have you been?

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

You might get some good days in Squamish if go around the end of May or June.

Moritz B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 185

Why not Yosemite?
You could also fly to Spain, the Frankenjura, Kalymnos - do whatever your spirit and your wallet tells you to :-)

beensandbagged · · smallest state · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

Republic of South Africa.

Crusher420 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

Syria

MacM · · Tucson/Preskitt, AZ · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 675

Dolomites and/or Kalymnos.

Michael Catlett · · Middleburg, VA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 175

I believe you said you wanted to travel outside of the US. I suggest Verdon Gorge France. Just Google it and you will find a massive canyon above a turquoise blue river with limestone sport routes masterfully bolted by the hundreds, many 5 to 7 pitches long. Beyond the gorge is incredible bolted crags to sport on when your day is lazy and your hangover is large. There is a small town with a few restaurants and hotels, and a relaxed atmosphere.....all very affordable.

During the hottest times we would go cragging in the morning, come back for wine, pizza and siesta and then climb a long route on the east or south sides of the gorge to avoid the sun. Your travel dates are optimal, lower crowds and cooler temps.

There are few approaches, other than a short walk to a crag or a long rap down into the gorge just meters from the pullout parking lot.

For me it opened my eyes to the serenity that can be found in light and unencumbered sport climbing in a big mountain setting. I found myself there after a early season snow storm hit Chamonix, so we just drove down.....and while I love the Alps, this place is one of the most memorable experiences of my climbing life.

PM me if you need beta.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Easy

Kalymnos if you want single pitch sport - go in April

Verdon if you want multi pitch sport - go in June

Clos · · newhall · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

both great choices, thank you. how did you like them, did you like one more than another? if so why?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Clos wrote:I'm looking for a cool place to go tell me where i can find great sport routes and fun. tell me where have you been?
Skaha, in Penticton, BC.
Over 1200 one-pitch sport routes 5.6 - 5.13, wineries, sun, lakes. Quite a bit of trad routes, too.
Rob Dillon · · Tamarisk Clearing · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 775

April- Taghia. Long rock climbs, of varying degrees of adventure, in a secluded mountain village.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

^^^
Where's Taghia?

Dolomites won't be settled in June and will be too cold and rainy before then.

Verdon looks awesome but would seem to have a higher level of commitment since most climbs are rapped in from above. If that's not an issue, it looks absolutely awesome.

Kalymnos looks great. Some friends of ours showed us photos from a trip there and it looked great. Another place that strikes me as similar climbing though very different setting is Thailand, if you go in April at least. After that will be too hot and humid.

I spent two very rewarding weeks in Arco once and had a blast, but it seems to have fallen out of favor, though it has the benefit of having some longer trad routes too, which is atypical for your average Euro crag.

Also consider Buoux or Ceuse, which alot of folks say has the best limestone anywhere. You'd probably get more out of the trip if you bumped your sport grade up a couple of letters though. Siurana and Rodellar also look awesome. If you only have two weeks, including travel time, maybe focus on a place with lots of moderate climbing that's easy to access from a nice base camp, whether it's a gite in a nice little village, a campground with easy access to the town, restaurants, etc.

Rob Dillon · · Tamarisk Clearing · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 775
Sergey · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1

Riglos is fun, even though you might tick off most of the routes in your range if you climb there for two weeks; check the guidebook first.

El Chorro is supposed to be great, although I can't personally attest to that.

Combining the two is an option if you want variety.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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