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Stoney Point/ Post Rain Storm

Original Post
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

So its that time of year, winter and the rain.

Stoney Point is a place near and dear to my heart. I first started climbing at Stoney way back in 1973.... I know most MP users were not even born at that time.

With the explosion of new climbers today, many do not know about Sandstone, especially Stoney Point sandstone.
The stuff soaks up water like a sponge and turns into mud. The only reason the boulders are boulders is because there is a protective layer of patina covering them. When wet, the holds become weakened, if you pull on them you can pull them off quite easily.

Chopped holds are even worse; the dug down nature of these holds allows more water to soak into the stone.

So the climbers at SP have always followed this one rule:

Do not climb if the ground is muddy.

I was very disappointed to learn that there were people climbing there last Sunday.

It poured all Friday nite about 1-2 inches.

My friend Jeff went Mountain Bike riding and when he cut through Stoney Point, he noticed several folks with pads at the usual boulders. When speaking to the climbers, most understood the problem and decided to pack it up and leave.

Some would not stop, and Jeff, all 5.5 and 110 pounds, needed to use verbal threats and one fellow actually wanted to fight him!

I think most MP users are good stewards of the stone. I post this in the hopes that we can spread the word about the true nature of Soft Sandstone and the need to stay off of it when wet.

The problems saved will be the ones you want to climb on this spring.

End of Rant

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

So lame. Stoney is freakin' amazing (even though it gets trashed). It's a bummer when people are this selfish. The rock is sooo fragile and the problems are world-class. Please make them last!

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18,818

Guy....how about posting photos of the worthless turd that Jeff was verbally threatening, so we can put a face to the persistent pad person should we ever encounter him. And thanks for your diligence and for Jeff's efforts.

Nick Mudd · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 185

Thanks Guy. Think it's had enough time to dry out now? I was going to take a look this afternoon but if anyone thinks it's still wet I'll save the gas.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Ben.... I wish Jeff had his camera, but no.

Nick.... Its nice and sunny and we had some good wind. Its probably OK now. Use your judgment, its OK to do some of the short mantle problems and other problems where your not pulling on flakes. eg: sculpture traverse is OK, your not going to pull off the whole big ledge deal but Pot-Hole traverse over in the back stays in the shade 90% of the day and those flakes move when you pull on them in the summer.

Looks like it will be good all week, into the 70's...

Merry Christmas to all.

Nick Mudd · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 185

went yesterday for a while. still pretty damp in the shade, but the rocks that see a lot of sun and most of the overhung stuff is ok. boulder one, pile ups, the amphitheater were fine, but probably stay off turlock and b1 for another day or two.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Nick... good thinking. It was nice and windy this am, and the sun is out now.

Prolly be good to go till the next rain.

Merry Christmas to all, happy climbing.

Colin Sander · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 126

Sad to see that boulder 1 lost a pretty essential step-foothold ledge for both "three little piggies" and "10-40". Don't know how wet it must've been for someone to shred that off. bummer : ( I really liked the delicate undersmear/crimp thing you had to do to get on 10-40. Glad I made it for the first time finally mere weeks before this hold disappeared. Without the step it's damn near impossible, definitely not fun.

keep up the good work of protecting the stoney, you guys are doing a nice service.

Nick Mudd · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 185

I was there last sunday and noticed that the step was loose, but it was still there. must have come off during the week. it certainly makes the start a bit more delicate but it still goes. there's a little crimp-looking thing next to where the big step was that you can get a couple of toes on.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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