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> River Wall II
Neurosurgeon
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3.3 from 47
votes
Routes in River Wall II
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Aquadarius S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Arresting Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Big, Big Gunky Man Direct (BBGMD) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Big, Big, Monkey Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Box, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brother From Another Planet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hero to Zero aka H2O S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Introducing Meteor Dad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Le Diamant E'ternal S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Livewire T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lost Horizons T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Neurosurgeon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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New Horizon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Papadarius S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Pocket Hercules T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Redneck Hero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Reservoir Dogs S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Social Dispensing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Surround Sound S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Technicolor Nightmare TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Mark Wilford and Steve Mammen, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 7,959 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Ryan on Oct 19, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Neurosurgeon climbs the stellar fingercrack on the far right side of the 'central' River Wall (after the bouldering approach in from right), just right of the steep 'slab' Le Diamant E'ternal. The only reason this climb doesn't receive three stars in my book is the scary finishing options. One must either climb difficult to protect direct 5.11 PG/R finish or move right around the arete as the crack fades in and out and finish on loose scary 5.9 R climbing. The lower portion of the climb, the meat of it, is beautiful and can be worth the scare above, or better yet TR the line.
Start with stellar fingerlocks. Just before the roof the crack widens to off-fingers and thin hands (cruxy). Polish off the roof above and climb several body lengths of pumpy crack. Good footwork here will make all the difference. On the lead one must choose here as the crack fades in and out to climb right to the arete and up (5.9 R) or directly up the 5.11 (PG/R) finish. A TR will follow the 5.11 finish.
Start with stellar fingerlocks. Just before the roof the crack widens to off-fingers and thin hands (cruxy). Polish off the roof above and climb several body lengths of pumpy crack. Good footwork here will make all the difference. On the lead one must choose here as the crack fades in and out to climb right to the arete and up (5.9 R) or directly up the 5.11 (PG/R) finish. A TR will follow the 5.11 finish.
Protection
A rack heavy on small medium gear up to 2.5 inches, and a double sets of TCUs or Aliens are useful. You can use the anchor to the left atop of Le Diamant E'ternal (LDE). It is possible to toprope via these anchors with some well-placed directional gear.
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