Another Accident due to mis-use of the Gri-gri
|
Tim Lutz wrote:'Its not the device's fault' I blame yoga pants and sport bras. If those were never invented, I would be a more attentive belayer.We finally solved the mystery. The best belay device is the one the belayer knows how to use properly and is most comfortable with. now can we quit bickering about different belay devices and just go out and climb?! Or at least go out and see some beautiful women with yoga pants? You people are beating a dead horse. |
|
nicelegs wrote: Why? Because he didn't go on vacation with 20k extra for a medical flight his insurance wouldn't pay? Should he be left in a hospital half a country away racking up bigger out of network fees because he didn't have the money? He did everything right insurance wise, not a lot of people have 20k sitting around. Especially those that work to make the gear you use.Charity for someone who screwed up while taking unnecessary risk in the pursuit of pure self indulgence, versus someone who truly needs charity and didn't create the situation they find themselves in. Seems absurd to me. American tourist in caymans=charity case? |
|
tim wrote: Charity for someone who screwed up while taking unnecessary risk in the pursuit of pure self indulgence, versus someone who truly needs charity and didn't create the situation they find themselves in. Seems absurd to me. American tourist in caymans=charity case?Should we as a community elect someone (probably you) to just go ahead and kill him then? |
|
That'll require a donation to my charity |
|
tim wrote:That'll require a donation to my charityI'm seriously trying to understand your logic here. You didn't give him money, neither did I. It doesn't affect you if you didn't. It literally bears no consequences in your life whatsoever. Lots of people did give and because they did, Jim can now go home and recover near his family and where his insurance wants him to be. Your taxes haven't gone up. There are no new phone taps on your identity. Your grandmother isn't getting waterboarded. You read about a guy who you probably don't know that got helped by people you probably don't know and you got pissed. Even if you love Edelweiss and hate Sterling, I'd venture to say that the influence of his company has positively impacted your life. So how about giving the guy a break or at least keeping your nasty little thoughts to yourself. |
|
nicelegs wrote: I'm seriously trying to understand your logic here. You didn't give him money, neither did I. It doesn't affect you if you didn't. It literally bears no consequences in your life whatsoever. Lots of people did give and because they did, Jim can now go home and recover near his family and where his insurance wants him to be. Your taxes haven't gone up. There are no new phone taps on your identity. Your grandmother isn't getting waterboarded. You read about a guy who you probably don't know that got helped by people you probably don't know and you got pissed. Even if you love Edelweiss and hate Sterling, I'd venture to say that the influence of his company has positively impacted your life. So how about giving the guy a break or at least keeping your nasty little thoughts to yourself.I guess I'm probably just jealous. Last year on my annual trip to Monaco I was street racing my rental car with some of the locals and let my young nephew take the wheel for only a second. Unfortunately this resulted in a horrendous crash. Needless to say the expenses were astronomical and in the interest of not incurring any of my own debt, I thought it would be a good idea to set up some form of charity for those that would feel bad for my situation. This didn't work out as I was hoping, although I did raise enough to feed an entire third world nation for a day, I still was left with some debt from my unfortunate accident. |
|
eli poss wrote: We finally solved the mystery. The best belay device is the one the belayer knows how to use properly and is most comfortable with. now can we quit bickering about different belay devices and just go out and climb?! Or at least go out and see some beautiful women with yoga pants? You people are beating a dead horse."Its a bit wet, i think ill have another 2 beers before soloing just to be safe" - Crazy Al before free soloing today Bluffs Very distracting ... Partner on kangaroo corner 11a, squamish |
|
tim wrote: I guess I'm probably just jealous. Last year on my annual trip to Monaco I was street racing my rental car with some of the locals and let my young nephew take the wheel for only a second. Unfortunately this resulted in a horrendous crash. Needless to say the expenses were astronomical and in the interest of not incurring any of my own debt, I thought it would be a good idea to set up some form of charity for those that would feel bad for my situation. This didn't work out as I was hoping, although I did raise enough to feed an entire third world nation for a day, I still was left with some debt from my unfortunate accident.Who pissed in your cornflakes this morning? No one is forcing you or anyone else to donate. It's the climbing community coming together and helping out one of our own. |
|
tim wrote: I guess I'm probably just jealous. Last year on my annual trip to Monaco I was street racing my rental car with some of the locals and let my young nephew take the wheel for only a second. Unfortunately this resulted in a horrendous crash. Needless to say the expenses were astronomical and in the interest of not incurring any of my own debt, I thought it would be a good idea to set up some form of charity for those that would feel bad for my situation. This didn't work out as I was hoping, although I did raise enough to feed an entire third world nation for a day, I still was left with some debt from my unfortunate accident.Really Tim? Sorry for your injuries, but your comparison is about as asinine as the logic I use when I still click on this thread after 9 pages. |
|
Not all trolls are like Trollanor, incapable of writing a coherent sentence. |
|
I don't have time to read all 1,000 replies to this thread, but I was there the day Jim fell and have a few comments - forgive me if they've been covered already. |
|
That last bit about my fall last July was to make the point that a Grigri may fail to lock even when the climber's side isn't clenched. As with our test feeding of Jim's rope, it takes a significant jerk to lock up. Due to the friction in my fall, the pull wasn't sufficient to lock the Grigri. If this can happen, then holding the climber's side could easily exacerbate the problem. |
|
but if you treat the grigri as you would an atc and seriously hold onto the brake end it isn't a problem. i've caught a bazillion falls with my hand on the feeding side (as you note, when you get yanked into the air your free hand naturally wants to go to the upper rope to stabilize you). the problem isn't grabbing the feeding end. the problem is not seriously grabbing the brake end. |
|
What if you seriously grab both? No locking and now you are catching with very little friction and the rope could run through and burn the break hand. |
|
mort ... |
|
Slim, the only thing we know (and, frankly, the only thing you know) is that you haven't encountered the problem. You have an explanation for this, based on something you call seriousness, whose implication is that anyone who does lose control under the rare circumstances that seemed to obtain in this accident is not taking their job seriously. You are turning what could be nothing more than your good fortune into some sort of personal virtue and then suggesting bad things only happen to those who are not sufficiently virtuous. |
|
I pretty much agree w Slim, though I always use gloves to belay and I'm pretty sure that helps with maintaining control of the brake strand. I understand the rationale that Andrew Bisharat provides for not using a glove on the left hand, but I've never had issues w death gripping the climber's side and my ropes are usually so dirty I'm just not interested in having the aluminum/dirt grime on either hand. |
|
slim wrote:but if you treat the grigri as you would an atc and seriously hold onto the break end it isn't a problem. i've caught a bazillion falls with my hand on the feeding side (as you note, when you get yanked into the air your free hand naturally wants to go to the upper rope to stabilize you). the problem isn't grabbing the feeding end. the problem is not seriously grabbing the break end. in every case that i have ever read about where someone dropped a climber with a gri gri without the end of the rope slipping through the device (ie lowering off the end of the rope), the accident could have been avoided by seriously grabbing the break end.brake - can no one spell? |
|
Eric Engberg wrote: brake - can no one spell?What r u a spelling nazi? lol Give us a brake will ya!!! |
|
I think they're homophones, actually. |