Best Mid 5.11 cracks

So the Creek is looking mighty cold these days. Any suggestions on warm splitters? Looking for anything 5.10 through mid 5.11.

-If you don't mind a short, harder crux (you can aid through if you want) then Cloud Tower is stacked with quality 5.10 & 5.11 crack pitches.

-Also check out Triassic Sands & Our Father in Black Velvet Canyon. THey are both great, but Our Father is a little runout though the easier climbing near the start.

-Yin Yang is short but nice.

I hope that helps. I'm sure the Vegas locals can list more.

Drive up the road to Zion and go play at the Cerberus Gendarme. Various parts of it get sun at this time of year.

A day of cragging at The Monument could also provide you with some 5.11 splitters with morning sun for the most part. There are some pitches on the Black Arch Wall I keep hearing are great but haven't gotten out to yet personally, so I'm sure someone (Josh??) can speak more accurately to those, but they may be in the 12 range.

Hope this helps.

I have done both Triassic Sands & Our Father and could agree more, great routs.

Weston, thanks for the Zion suggestion, always a good idea.

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

^^^ Yes if you are willing to head to Zion, there are lots of nice routes in your stated range & type. The cracks tend to be more splitter style than in Vegas, where the cracks are often accompanied by a gazillion face-holds.

Also if you are willing to travel a little farther there are tons of splitters in Arizona, and the weather is nice right now.

+1 for Triassic Sands, add in Wholesome Fullback, which brings you to the classic final pitch of Our Father on the descent. Best day of 5.10 crack I've had. Shady and cool this time of year though. Highly recommend Winter Heat (.11b) for some of the best varnish in RR. Shady but seems protected from wind, plus sunny sport crags are right across the way.

Talk about warm crags, your backyard Wasatch is prime these next couple days. Climb in a t-shirt at Bongeater, Mexican Crack, The Coffin, Tick Fever, or Flying Dutchman up at the Sail. If you haven't done any of these hit me up for a belay!

Red Zinger 10d
Handbone 10b/c
Dog Police 10c
Lizard Locks 11b/c
The Fox 10d

Zinger and The Fox won't get any sun. Nor will Dog Police this time of year (I don't think).. but these five are all quality splitters, or as spliterish as they come in Red Rock. They are all single pitches though.. sadness.

One other 5.11 crack I have heard talked up but have yet to get around to is Gobies For Gumbies (gumbys?). While short and more of a party trick than a route, Risk Brothers Roof is another fun 5.11 crack. I have heard good things about Eliminator Crack, but it is way the hell out there for a single pitch. Seems like most here are rattling off 5.10 cracks...I am struggling to think of more 11 cracks as well. Have heard good things about Eliminator Crack, but it is way the hell out there for a single pitch. Very interested to see what others chime in with...

Orange Clonus is worth doing.

Eagle wall should be in the sun if you haven't done levitation or eagles dance. The creek and zion have more splitters and the weather is great in zion right now.

Risk Brothers Roof is definitely cool and in the range. I went over to Red Zinger a few days ago and despite being in a very sunny area, the corner itself gets zero sun and the crack was frigid. I'm surprised no one has mentioned it, but The Monument area is sweet and the roof crack of Desert Gold is at the grade. I haven't climbed it, though.

Gobies for Gumbies is a great route, but if you're looking to stay warm, you're better off staying in the sun at IC. The nook it's in is one of the coldest places in RR. Other suggestions that are not in the sun, but your body and soul will be warmed by the approach and the climbing are: Beauty (on the Triad), Transfusion, Seppuku, and OW Negative (all on the Blood Wall). Apparently the roof on OW Neg has been freed at "5.10"....