Ice Climbing Without Ropes

BWIce wrote: All of it was fun.

Screaming barfies?

Ron L Long wrote:I would just like to point out, you can romanticize it all you want, but PBR still sucks.

PBR - fueling romance since 1844, when beer was beer, men were men, and hemp ropes ruled the day.

James M Schroeder wrote: PBR - fueling romance since 1844, when beer was beer, men were men, and hemp ropes ruled the day.

PBR = Hipster swill.
Beer for people who hate beer.

Marc801 wrote: PBR = Hipster swill. Beer for people who hate beer.

Alternately, beer for people whose concern over their appearance overrides their gag reflex.
I've been to a couple of parties where the hipsters lined up at the PBR keg: "I can't wait to hate this!"
Honestly, its cheap, it gets you drunk, nobody needs to hide their intentions with P-Beer.

Brian Scoggins wrote:Honestly, its cheap, it gets you drunk, nobody needs to hide their intentions with P-Beer.

Fortunately I've past the point many decades ago where quality becomes more important than quantity. Even if the intent is to get drunk, why drink canned pee to do so?

Marc801 wrote: Fortunately I've past the point many decades ago where quality becomes more important than quantity. Even if the intent is to get drunk, why drink canned pee to do so?

I'm just saying that if anybody tells you they're drinking p-beer for any other than the two reasons I mentioned, they're probably lying about something else too.

Brian Scoggins wrote: I'm just saying that if anybody tells you they're drinking p-beer for any other than the two reasons I mentioned, they're probably lying about something else too.

+1
And the thread hijack is complete!

Marc801 wrote: +1 And the thread hijack is complete!

And my work here is done......thank you.

Without reading 3 pages of fighting:

I'm a crappy ice climber, bu ice is somewhat contrary when it comes to the concept of protection. Bear with my pre-coffee logic, but you are safer placing less pro when leading, as you are stopping less ie. less chance of pumping out or having a tool/pon popping. The more time you are "hanging out" the greater chance of falling, which 99% of people subscribe to the idea of "don't".

That being said, the less pro you place the more F'd you are if you fall or something does blow. Ice is very committing to begin with unless you are on TR, but soloing covered in spikes is high level for sure.

Ice is a sketchy activity in general...you don't know what you are going to get until you are there.

The same goes for easier rock terrain as well. Think how many times you fiddled with gear tiring yourself out on a section you could have relatively solo'd. Again decreases the chance of falling from pump etc, but ups the commitment. All a personal choice really.

Scott McMahon wrote:but you are safer placing less pro when leading, as you are stopping less ie. less chance of pumping out or having a tool/pon popping. The more time you are "hanging out" the greater chance of falling, which 99% of people subscribe to the idea of "don't".

That was true before modern sharp screws. With new screws and extensive research we've got on them, the above logic is outdated. If you are pumping out and/or your tools/pons are popping especially on moderate ice, you need to work on your technique before jumping on sharp end... And maybe place more pro.

Having said that leading ice is still "controlled solo" in a way - you have to solo through long runouts (relative to rock) and many leaders (myself included) still follow the "leader must not fall" mantra, it's just too many pointy things on you and around you...

Soloing ice? Read Tom Patey, who did it all the time in Scotland and didn't die in the process. His points are hilarious, eloquent and spot-on.

For longer, equally eloquent discussion, treat yourself to W.H. Murray.

Either one will spoil you for reading internet rants.

doligo wrote: That was true before modern sharp screws. With new screws and extensive research we've got on them, the above logic is outdated. If you are pumping out and/or your tools/pons are popping especially on moderate ice, you need to work on your technique before jumping on sharp end... And maybe place more pro. Having said that leading ice is still "controlled solo" in a way - you have to solo through long runouts (relative to rock) and many leaders (myself included) still follow the "leader must not fall" mantra, it's just too many pointy things on you and around you...

Oh i agree with you on this. When placing at the waist and a nice sharp BD turbo you can get a screw in quick provided it bites, and there are no issues with the ice. One example of my point though is when I was on a short pitch in CCC and trying to get my screw to bite. Up comes Jack Roberts who solo's the section in a split second. Sure Jack was a freak of ice nature and a beauty to watch climb, but my point is who was safer? Me placing a screw and still on the lead, or Jack who placed no pro and was safe at the top?

Even top roping ice is dangerous. Catch a point and trash an ankle.

I'm not a hipster (ask anyone who knows me).
I've been drinking PBR since before hipsters were a thing (again, ask anyone who knows me).
I actually like PBR and choose to drink it in the privacy of my own home without an audience (ask my wife).

Just because you don't like PBR or have the sophisticated palate required for its enjoyment, doesn't mean you should judge others for drinking PBR. PBR, like soloing ice, is a personal decision.

Thread officially re-weaved together.

Sweet bro. Keep claiming while everybody else actually goes out and climbs the ice you guys keep bitching about.

Ryan L wrote:Sweet bro. Keep claiming while everybody else actually goes out and climbs the ice you guys keep bitching about.

Are you old enough to drink PBR bro?

Was hoping to be able to use this...

Mike Robinson wrote: Are you old enough to drink PBR bro?

Nope, and honestly it saves me a lot of time because I don't argue about what I intoxicate myself with on the internet against strangers. I spend that time climbing :)

Ryan L wrote: Nope, and honestly it saves me a lot of time because I don't argue about what I intoxicate myself with on the internet against strangers. I spend that time climbing :)

Honestly Bro, PBR makes me crush. You'll understand someday.