Mountain Project Logo

Crampon Question

Original Post
Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

I plan on doing Long's East Face this summer. The last time I was there was 30 years ago and I remember crossing the snowfield was by far the scariest part of the climb we did. Wondering just how much crampon I need to be safe - has to work with just approach shoes. I'm looking at
backcountry.com/kahtoola-mi… .

Anyone have experience using these?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

These would provide more security and are good for use with approach shoes:

mountaingear.com/webstore/G…

Edit: I meant to send you to the Air Tech Light crampons:

outdoorgearlab.com/Crampon-…

SBrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

The Kahtoola Microspikes are awesome little spikes - a friend of mine has climbed Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams (both Washington State) with just Microspikes - never needed to switch to crampons.

That said, Long's East Face? ehh... I'd feel more comfortable with the crampons FrankPS posted.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55
SBrown wrote:The Kahtoola Microspikes are awesome little spikes - a friend of mine has climbed Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams (both Washington State) with just Microspikes - never needed to switch to crampons. That said, Long's East Face? ehh... I'd feel more comfortable with the crampons FrankPS posted.
It's just for crossing the snowfield at the base in August to get to the rocks - not doing a snow/ice "climb" like Lambs etc.
Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130

Depending on the time of the year (late August) there may not be any snow to cross... I guess I'm just assuming you are going up the North Chimney though. I'd say microspikes would be sufficient if not a super lightweight aluminum crampon.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

I did this same climb 30 years ago and the hardest (scariest) part then was crossing the snow field (it was the first week of August). I have no idea of the future conditions for this summer but want to be prepared is all. My regular crampons won't work on approach shoes (bails). I may not need anything of course but better to be ready than not. Thanks all.

Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

I guided in RMNP in the '80s and have probably been up the East Face (Keiner's) 50 times. Summer can mean many things so it's tricky. Some summer days the snow on Lamb's Slide is soft enough to negate the need for crampons. Other times it's all froze up and you'll need crampons all the way. And then there's Broadway: same thing, sometimes it's icy and sometimes it's not. It depends.

Whatever the case, throw in a set of the Kahtoola K10's and you'll be okay. Unless it's late summer and the whole thing has turned into a sheet of hard water ice. Those conditions are terrifying and require real crampons. I hope you don't run in to that. If you do, climb the rock rib to the left of Lamb's Slide and dash across when you reach Broadway level or climb Stettner's to B-way or blow it off and climb the North Face route.

Learn to chop steps. Yeah, I know it's old school but it can save you a ton of time if all you need is a few foot pockets to get around an icy spot on Broadway.

You know how to self-arrest, don't you?

Climb safe,
Mal

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Crampon Question"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.