Gunks pioneer Hans Kraus book

Ken, have you read "Big Wall Climbing" by Doug Scott? I think you'd be surprised by the technical accomplishments achieved in the 1910's. Dulfer and others were leading long 5.7-8 routes in the Wilde Kaiser and the Dolomites, including fairly sophisticated rope maneuvers.
Can't remember if Scott mentions Kraus but I think Wiessner got a vignette.

I saw a slideshow Susan did at Rock and Snow years ago. It was really cool how Physical Therapy was brought into the whole book before it was widely recognized.

It truly is a great book

Mark E Dixon wrote:Dulfer and others were leading long 5.7-8 routes in the Wilde Kaiser and the Dolomites, including fairly sophisticated rope maneuvers.

Thanks for pointing to that source and giving that perspective.

At the time of the accident in 1921, Marcus was 18 and Hans was 16 years old.
Quote from JFK's Secret Doctor, by Susan E.B. Schwartz, page 12:
"The boys carried a rope but didn't have pitons or any other way of anchoring the rope to the rock."

During the fall of Marcus after some rocks broke - quote from Hans on page 14:
"The end of the rope yanked out of my hands and fell down the mountain."

Seems obvious that Hans had untied from the rope before Marcus started leading that bad pitch.
. . .(so my previous attempted explanation that Marcus hit a ledge was wrong, and Hans presumably calculated the length of rope that slipped and burned through is hands by subtracting the distance Marcus was above him from the total length of the rope).

Ken

Bradclymber wrote:It was really cool how Physical Therapy was brought into the whole book before it was widely recognized.

Yes, Hans Kraus was way ahead of his time, and I liked that the book had lots about that.

Recently I got interested in Massage aspects of physical therapy, and I looked at later career of Bonnie Prudden . Another thing I like about the book is that it had lots about her - (whose name is on the über-classic Gunks climb, "Bonnie's Roof").

So I bought her equipment for self-massage and find that well-designed and helpful for my soreness from climbing and other activities. I also bought her book, which contained a remarkable twist:

Bonnie Prudden in her physical therapy work by the 1970s had developed great admiration and respect for both of the key agonists in the conflict over the medical care of President John F. Kennedy.

Ken

bumping this because of susan’s interview on climbing lifer.

hans has three piton’s on pitch 3 and uses only 1 to bring up fritz? sounds like hyperbole. any thoughts? does this differ in the book?

i always gave him tons of credit for the move — but basically free soloing the headwall sounds like a stretch even for Hans.

some good stuff here though:

https://podcasts.apple.com/ca/podcast/the-climbing-lifer-podcast/id1490777042?i=1000463550226