Static short ropes for top rope

So, for those of us in the Chicago area, the go-to location for weekend/day trip climbing is Devil's Lake, WI. Most of the routes there are short and nothing is bolted, so the most common type of climbing is toproping (most routes can be approached from above, so it's super easy to setup). I've read many guides that recommend buying a static short rope for this, and I find the idea appealing, as I'd rather not put undue wear on my main rope, which is a 9.4mm Sterling Evolution. My main concern is getting something that is "too static" which could be dangerous to take a hard fall on (although, admittedly, I obviously won't be taking lead falls so it shouldn't be TOO hard).

gearexpress.com/sterling-ht…
This is the right size for safely TRing just about anything at Devils Lake and the diameter is nice and beefy, so I'm betting it will take some abuse...but the "super static" tagline worries me. Thoughts?

I think the guides mean a static short rope for building the top rope anchor. Falling on top rope on a static rope would be unpleasant

I second the notion that the guides were referring to the rope used to construct the TR anchor. Static far outlasts webbing for this, and is generally more versatile and easier to work with.

But TR'ing on a static rope isn't the back-breaker that some folks believe. There's a few percent of stretch in all nylon and polyester ropes; these things aren't steel cable. And if you belay at the bottom, as nearly all topropers do, there's always enough rope in the system to provide sufficient "give" for safe and practical TR hang dogging. Low cruxes and heavy climbers are better protected by a low stretch belay.

Cautions - Obviously you're going to avoid accumulated slack. Don't loan the rope out to anyone who might forget/not realize it's a static rope. This is esp. true if the rope is colorful and looks like a dynamic rope.

Toproping with a static line is fine. The Boulder Rock Club (and many other gyms) uses static ropes that are wrapped twice around an iron bar, on routes that are shorter than most outdoor routes.... it doesn't get more static than that.

It's a jerky fall if there's much slack out, but you'd see a lot of injuries if it were actually an issue. An advantage to toproping with a static is that you don't have to keep the belay particularly tight to avoid hitting the ground when you're near the bottom, and statics are more durable like you said.

Yeah, I'm 100% sure the guides were recommending the short rope for belaying, though that's a good (albeit expensive) option for anchors as well! Most of the routes are 30-40 feet; hence, a 60M dynamic would be a waste and potentially dangerous if you have a low crux.

What do Guides Know anyway? send in your money and your a GUIDE, almost.

I watched a GUIDE from a local GYM, let a client hit the deck from about 15/20 feet up the other day......

rule of thumb.... always pull all the stretch and slack out of your rope when top roping.

I personally feel that static ropes are kinda dangerous for all climbing.

What if you let a team use your TR set up, and that team is like me and my friends.... we usually give lots of slack, so you know your knot getting pulled up a climb, the loop is down by your feet typically.... if a fatso like me takes a flyer I could pull the anchor.

Think about why you want to do this? Ropes are meant to be used, not cherished and stored away.

Those guides recommend using a static rope for building top-rope anchors, not for using as a climbing rope. Static ropes are used for top-rope anchors because they don't stretch. If a dynamic rope were to be used in a top-rope anchor the rope would stretch as it is weighted and unweighted which causes a sawing action any place the anchor rope is rubbing across the rock. This sawing action causes wear and eventual damage to the sheath (aka. core shot).

Bottom line, use static ropes for top-rope anchors, not for climbing on.

Guy: that honesty sounds like a bad idea. I like a loose belay as much as the next guy...sometimes I'll even have a belayer let lead slack out...but around your feet?? Sounds like a great way to deck...

I pretty much use a static rope for all my top rope setups, done this for a couple years, with no problems at all. Also I use it for my top rope solo setups. And as said before, most of the gyms I've been to, also use static ropes for top roping.

Ted Pinson wrote:Guy: that honesty sounds like a bad idea. I like a loose belay as much as the next guy...sometimes I'll even have a belayer let lead slack out...but around your feet?? Sounds like a great way to deck...

No decking, but I hang with a tough crew, if you start crying about the slack before it gets to your feet... they give you more!!!

I find that most new climbers these days expect you to help them.... when they sit back and don't feel the rope they go all ape-s$It and start crying.

So Ted, most of the climbers I have known who were from Devil's Lake really know how to climb. Must be something in the drinking water.

Cheers.

You can still have your dynamic rope in the system.

Top rope anchor built with static rope and master point overhanging the edge. Climbing rope goes through master point with opposite & opposed, or locking carabiners.

I use a 9mm/30m static to build my anchor, and this length iis a little overkill for where I climb, but does not take up too much space, at least for my load tolerance. I like the potential to use the extra for something else if need be, as well.

"something in the water" I believe you are referring to swill

and it just occurred to me that dlfa might have been the forerunner to trolling

Guy Keesee wrote: No decking, but I hang with a tough crew, if you start crying about the slack before it gets to your feet... they give you more!!! I find that most new climbers these days expect you to help them.... when they sit back and don't feel the rope they go all ape-s$It and start crying. So Ted, most of the climbers I have known who were from Devil's Lake really know how to climb. Must be something in the drinking water. Cheers.

Lol it's because DL is brutal. Slick quartzite rock, old school ratings (most people get blown out by .8s and .9s), and lots of technical climbs that destroy gym climbers used to pumpy jug-fests. Gotta love it!