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Will down turned Sport shoes for gym climbing hurt my trad climbing?

Original Post
JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

I've been spending time this winter training in the gym and pushing the grade sport climbing. I currently wear 5.10 huecos, they are comfy but not downturned or precise at all. I'm thinking about trying a more aggressive shoe for sport climbing, but I fear when I get back on granite slabs that I will notice a huge difference when I go back to comfy trad shoes. All my goals are trad/crack climbing related, so I don't want to increase my sport ability if it costs me anything when climbing trad routes

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966

I don't think any shoe will 'hurt' your climbing ability, provided they fit your foot and are comfortable for their purpose. I climb with a fellow who climbs up to 5.12+ trad in solutions, and these are jamming routes, not always just face climbs on gear. If you get a good pair of downturn shoes, especially something with a solid midsole like a Miura VS, you could expect this shoe to be better than your huecos in basically every type of terrain. Just don't get them ridiculously tight!

brat . · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 81

You could also try something somewhere in the middle. A step up from your Huecos, but not too far up. I trad climb in La Sportiva Katanas on everything except desert splitters (and then, I only don't wear my Katanas because I blow out the Velcro, they work great!) Find something that fits you well.

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

Unfortunately, I don't think la sportiva makes large enough shoes for my foot. The 46 is too small. It also seems as if I have a 5.10 foot. Seeing as my goal is 11+/12-, I'm not sure it's the shoes that are holding me back. I usually wear moccasyms outside

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270

try pinks if they make your size

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

on harder trad routes ... it likely wont hurt you nor on hard slabs ... in squamish granite anyways when it gets harder it either gets thinner (fingers and tips) or more overhung ... either way the downturn doesnt matter a huge deal and may help

on moderate (under 10s) it will likely hurt you, especially on multi ... moderate trad here is all on the feet as its lower angle ... and the cracks tend to be wider ... jamming a miura VS in a hand crack for 30m+ aint no fun when your toes are knuckled up

nor climbing 14+ pitches of moderate slab and crack all day ... your feet will suffer for it

get a pair of all day trad shoes and a pair of hard sport/trad shoes ... thats all there is to it

;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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