Experience with Training Beta programs?

Just wondering if anyone has experience with any of the Training Beta programs offered through trainingbeta.com/ ? Looking for programs scalable for all levels of climbers. Any info or alternative suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Doug

Thanks, I'll look into that one.

I really like a lot of the info on the traningbeta site. Their podcasts and blogs are super informative and very interesting.

I do have the 6 week power endurance program and it is killer. I have no doubt that, if you could actually manage to follow it, it would make you insanely fit. However, there were a few things about the program that I didn't like and found hard to follow.

1.) the volume of training in that program is MASSIVE. For example, the time for the first workout in the program is 3-4 hours and realistically took all of 4 hours to complete. Multiple sessions a week in excess of three hours is just too much volume for me. My elbows simply cannot handle that and my psyche to be in training mode really cannot be sustained in that. I find that I have much better adherence to programs that involve shorter (2 hour max) very focused and intense training sessions.

2.) The workouts feel a bit sporadic to me. One day you're doing routes back to back, the next your doing some random four by four ish workout on bouldler problems, and the next you're doing some random circuit training. It just doesn't feel cohesive at all or like there is any sort of overarching theme to the program other than do a ton of volume and work on your core some.

The good.
1.) It does do a VERY good job describing the workouts so you always know what you need to do.
2.) It presents some new workouts that I have never seen or done before that I do find very beneficial and have incorporated into my training.
3.) It's great to wake up every morning and know you don't have to think about what you're going to do for your traing, just open up the ipad and get started.

I'll definitely buy other programs in the future because I like what they are doing over there and want to support it. I also feel like I got enough valuable information from the plan to justify the cost, I just couldn't stick to the whole plan because I was physically and mentally exhausted.

Hope this is helpful

I've done the 8 week Endurance program by Kris Hampton. This made a big difference in my climbing at the Red. I'd say it's a great program for a 10+/11 climber looking to get into 5.12.
The volume of work was a bit much for me and I couldn't complete some of the sprint work at the end of the sessions. My body adapted substantially over the course of the training.

Does anyone else have any experience with Training Beta programs or something similar?  I am leading 10+ trad and I want to be comfortable leading mid 11s.  I wanted to start a program this winter to whip myself into shape for some goals this summer.   Thanks!  

I’ve been doing the route training  for 5 weeks out of six for power endurance. I will say after following it exactly I’ve seen a lot of gains endurance wise. I’ve always dabbled training for bouldering and have sent max v10 but could never get past 12c with routes. It’s quite a load but only 3 days a week so working as a framer full time it’s enough for me but not too much. The first few weeks were difficult with working physical labor all day right before but like anything if you’re healthy you’ll adapt. To quantify at this point 12c/d was a red point or hard onsight for me and a comfortable warmup was 11b/c.
Currently 12a is a comfortable warmup and 13a/b is red point status. Interested to see what another 6 weeks will have in store.
It’s great if like me you know enough about training but can’t put a plan together and stick to it. I just open the dashboard and get rolling, sticking to the workouts and using a timer.
Good luck if you try it. I Haven’t tried the bouldering one.