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T wall climbing

Original Post
Brendan Cathcart · · Bishop, CA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 908

Going to stop by t wall on my way south. Are the routes generally easy access to set up top ropes? I top rope solo and was curious how the routes are set up. Thanks.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

nope. pretty much have to lead something first. for easy accessable TRs go to sunset

ClimbHunter · · Reno, NV · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 15

Unfortunately I cannot recommend T-Wall for rope-soloing (although I have never tried to do this specifically). The cliff is long and very continuous, and there is no feasible way to walk from the access trail (along the base of the cliff) to the top of the climbs.

Although many of the anchors could be accessed once you got on top of the first cliff band, identifying climbs from above would be difficult, and you would run the risk of knocking loose rocks/shrubbery onto someone below. Toproping is not common here, and most people are not assuming that someone is above them.

Hopefully someone will provide a second opinion, but I would vote against it. Instead I would recommend:

1) Try to find a partner for T-Wall (on this forum, a post at the local gym, or just hanging out in the parking lot). Winter is the season so there will definitely be folks there on sunny days. Even if partners aren't really your thing, I feel like you would get a lot more out of your day(s).

2) Rope solo at Sunset. Although in my mind not as worthwhile as T-Wall (definitely debatable!), Sunset offers excellent routes with good density AND more top-rope access. Leaving the parking lot, you will quickly reach the top of the cliff, and from there can either walk to the base or go anchor-hunting. Last time I checked there were still some access quirks at Sunset. The climbing & parking is in a high-dollar neighborhood, and you will get a ticket if you are parked in the (very limited) lot after Sunset [get it, you never see the sunset from Sunset unless you can afford it!]

I hope this helps. Feel free to PM me with other questions.
-H

Brendan Cathcart · · Bishop, CA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 908

Very helpful. I have a rack if anyone wants to partner up. If not anchor hunting it is!

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

if i'm home at the time i'll go to Twall with ya. to my knowledge there aren't any access quirks at sunset. just keep in mind that they NPS blames any and every "noise complaint" on climbers so be respectful and leave your dog at home. also there is a ban on the use of trees or other plants for anchors (TR or rap) but most if not all climbs have two-bolt anchors. the few if any that don't have anchors will have top outs and you can either walk to an anchor or walk back down.

EQueezy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

how's the climb-ability looking there for the next few wks? planning on making a trip but highs in 30's with some snow/ice seems pretty frigid. Haven't been before but seems like you'd want some good sun this time of yr

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

winters tend be kinda rainy here but on the dry days T-wall is great because it gets tons of sun. if you wanna do some sport climbing, some parts of Leda usually get a good bit of sun.

chris vultaggio · · The Gunks · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 535

Check out Rock/Creek too - some good dudes there with good beta on climbing/partners.

EQueezy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0
eli poss wrote:winters tend be kinda rainy here but on the dry days T-wall is great because it gets tons of sun. if you wanna do some sport climbing, some parts of Leda usually get a good bit of sun.
thanks man. we'll keep an eye on the weather. looks just like you said: wet, then sunny :)
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Southern States
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