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Sharkbait
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Dec 20, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 15
Think of this as kind of like a help group for traumatized climbers: Ok so this happened to me last weekend. I think it was one of the scariest moments of my life. That feeling of going further and further down as your partner is struggling to hold you. Any of you know the feeling? That feeling when you start prusiking up the rope only to take a sudden 5/6 foot drop. Can I share the feeling of knowing if you fall you probably won't die right away but you will die. You will die cold alone and in pain? Has anybody had any similar experiences?
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Kevin Zagorda
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Dec 21, 2014
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Glen Haven, Co
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 600
It sounds like you were a rope team of 2. I always use stopper knots to help arrest the fall in that case, it complicates rescue and requires you to carry more rope, but I've always felt it was worth the added safety margin.
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Sharkbait
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Dec 24, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 15
yea they work some time. Always carry an ice screw on you so you can deweight the rope.
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Dow Williams
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Dec 24, 2014
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St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 240
Sharkbait wrote:yea they work some time. Always carry an ice screw on you so you can deweight the rope. If you don't mind me asking...who is teaching a crevasse rescue course that excludes carrying pro?
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Sharkbait
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Dec 24, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 15
Dow Williams wrote: If you don't mind me asking...who is teaching a crevasse rescue course that excludes carrying pro? People forget don't they. Need two screws really don't you think? so you can aid up the side if the crevasse. Thoughts?
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George Bell
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Dec 24, 2014
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 5,050
There was too much slack in the rope if you went in this far. Next time you are on a glacier I think you will watch the slack much closer. It's annoying, but slack is not good ...
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Benjamin Chapman
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Dec 24, 2014
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Small Town, USA
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 19,012
Yep...been there twice, Sharkbait. Actually, beyond the initial weightlessness the experience happens so quickly there's not time to think. Yeah....reflecting on hanging on the end of the rope can be sobering, but provided you don't hit something or poke yourself with a crampon or ice axe it's a good story for the bar or the campfire. My teammates were more conscientious at keeping the rope taut and I didn't go that far.
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Sharkbait
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Dec 24, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 15
I needed the slack as I was attempting to jump the thing. As you can see I didn't jump far enough. It is definitely sobering. Nearly gives you that 1000 yard stare.
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Gokul G
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Dec 24, 2014
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Madison, WI
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 1,748
You made an uncertain jump without an anchor? Glad you made it out okay.
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Sharkbait
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Dec 24, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 15
Gokul wrote:You made an uncertain jump without an anchor? Glad you made it out okay. I am very lucky. Just always remember to put an ice screw in and de weight the rope as soon as you can. If you stopped to build an anchor every time you had to jump a crevasse you would be on the glacier all day and night.
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Ray Pinpillage
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Dec 25, 2014
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West Egg
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 180
Did your crampons fall off when you jumped?
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Sharkbait
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Dec 25, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 15
Crampons can be dangerous on glaciers in soft snow conditions. I was lucky I didn't have them on because I was bouncing from side to side so much that my foot could have easily got snagged if i had them on.
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Gokul G
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Dec 25, 2014
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Madison, WI
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 1,748
Sharkbait wrote: If you stopped to build an anchor every time you had to jump a crevasse you would be on the glacier all day and night. I wouldn't do it on obviously narrow crevasses. But if there's any reasonable doubt, it takes only a few seconds to plunge an axe in for a quick anchor.
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Sharkbait
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Dec 25, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 15
How do you know how wide they are if they are fully bridged?
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FrankPS
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Dec 25, 2014
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
Is Sharkbait really Elena?
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Bill Kirby
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Dec 25, 2014
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Keene New York
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 480
FrankPS wrote:Is Sharkbait really Elena? No. She has some glacier travel skills. Sharkbait needs freedom of the hills under their tree.
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Sharkbait
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Dec 25, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 15
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Sharkbait
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Dec 25, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 15
Bill Kirby wrote: No. She has some glacier travel skills. Sharkbait needs freedom of the hills under their tree. I have been traveling glaciers my whole life and have even worked as a glacier guide. I could set up a haul faster than you even if you had an atc guide and I used an alpine clutch. Think before you speak.
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