Resting during a trip?

So I'm heading out to Indian Creek in a few months. On previous trips when I've tried to climb there more than 2 days in a row it's been pretty unsuccessful on day 3,to the point where even after resting on day 4, I'm still feeling it on day 5. Obviously the goal is to climb as much and as well as possible in a limited time.

My thought was to go 2 days on and 1 day off. However I did once try (on a trip to the RRG) a strategy I read in Dave McLeod's book, where instead of taking full rest days you just lighten the intensity to the point where you can climb every day without ever taking a rest day so that you can maximize the trip. This actually sort of worked although the final (5th) day at the Red was not very productive.

What do people find works well to get the most out of a trip while still being fresh enough to turn in a good effort? Anything besides rest days that helps to maximize recovery? (One thing, I know, will be to really focus on efficient crack technique so I don't get so damned worked to begin with...)

I can handle about three straight days of climbing hard at the Creek before what I like to call the "coma day" where the whole world becomes super bothersome and moves way too quickly for my mind/body,

On an extended Creek trip. I like this three days on, one day off rotation:

Day one: warmup day. 4-5 pitches ramping from the easiest route at the Wall up to about 80% of max onsight ability. I don't fall or hangdog that day. It's a great day to check out a new wall, or go to some old favorites and climb some of the less "classic" routes (here's a secret, they're really really good too even though there isn't a line for them). I personally like Pistol Whipped, Cat Wall, Technicolor Wall and Scarface Wall on this type of day.

Day two: the gettin' shit done day: 6-10 pitches varrying from 60-150% of my onsight ability. Lead, top-rope, whip or hangdog. Whatever, this is my favorite day. Just climbing a ton of rad splitters and soaking up sun. You're warmed up, but not too thrashed. My favorite crags for this type of day are Way Rambo, The Wall, Supercrack, Battle of the Bulge. Sure they're crowded, but they're stacked with bad ass lines. With the right mindset and strategy, you can have this kind of day at these crags even if they're super crowded.

Day three: chilling out/maxing out day: it's send day, I sleep in a bit have a big breakfast, do a lot of stretching and then head out to climb, usually tieing in about 10:45-11:00 on these days. Climb one warmup route and then go for two somewhat ambitious onsights. Ideally a full number grade more than my max onsight ability. Probably call it a day after that. Maybe catch a couple of top-rope laps on something easy-ish.

Day four: rest

Repeat... If you're there for a whole month, you may have to take a double rest day once, go with your gut there.

If I'm going to perform, 2 days on, 1 day off. If you're over 25 and trying to crank at your max on day 3,4, or 5, I think you're asking for poor performance at best and injury at worst. If you're 19, do whatever you want.

My last trip was a week long. I hiked around and checked out the lines I wanted to get on. Then I climbed problems I knew I could finish but would take a few tries. I took a rest day then felt golden. The last two days I would spend half the day working on stuff at my absolute limit. I was dead on the flight home but I felt great all days.

One thing I like to do on long trips is to rest on the weekend. I take the other day of the weekend to go out early to hit a multipitch before anyone. I usually quit after we're done the one route unless we walk by something open.

Optimistic wrote:So I'm heading out to Indian Creek in a few months. On previous trips when I've tried to climb there more than 2 days in a row it's been pretty unsuccessful on day 3,to the point where even after resting on day 4, I'm still feeling it on day 5. Obviously the goal is to climb as much and as well as possible in a limited time. My thought was to go 2 days on and 1 day off. However I did once try (on a trip to the RRG) a strategy I read in Dave McLeod's book, where instead of taking full rest days you just lighten the intensity to the point where you can climb every day without ever taking a rest day so that you can maximize the trip. This actually sort of worked although the final (5th) day at the Red was not very productive. What do people find works well to get the most out of a trip while still being fresh enough to turn in a good effort? Anything besides rest days that helps to maximize recovery? (One thing, I know, will be to really focus on efficient crack technique so I don't get so damned worked to begin with...)

I try to do other activities I already intended on doing anyway on rest days. For example, you're in IC so on my rest days in IC I went to Moab and highlined, or went to check out the Corona Arch. I also use travel days as rest days since you have to travel eventually, so mind as well plan your rest days around the travel days.

Eventually you will run out of food and/ or ice. Another good option for a rest day. In IC you will want a shower eventually. Combine that with vacuuming your car out if needed, a shower, a food run, and maybe a hike. Good rest day. I also plan my partners around rest days. I dont typically have super steady partners on climbing trips, but rather various people I climb with here and there. So if I know I have a partner for five days, I'll just push it out for five days and then maybe take a rest on the sixth while looking for a new partner.

Another option for a rest day is an easy moderate or a change in climbing type. If you're cranking hard fingers and hands at IC, on your "rest day" try to bum a TR on a "easy" chimney, or drive to Moab and climb some chill sport at Wall Street, or go do a 5.7 moderate tower somewhere.

evan h wrote:If I'm going to perform, 2 days on, 1 day off. If you're over 25 and trying to crank at your max on day 3,4, or 5, I think you're asking for poor performance at best and injury at worst. If you're 19, do whatever you want.

Over 25 is over the hill?! What if you're over 55?! ;-)

FWIW, for most people resting more earlier in the trip should keep you stronger longer. In other words, one on, one off, one on, one off, two on for a week-long trip. Hard to do when you're stoked to climb.