Standard desert rack - Zion

Hi,

I a specifically looking at this climb:
mountainproject.com/v/mythi…

Gear suggestions are 'Standard desert rack to #5' What exactly does this mean? This description also says to bring hand size pieces. So... am I reading that basically bring a lot of handsize pieces depending on how comfy I am on lead?

Thanks,

PS: I've seen this comment before and it is confusing to me. I take a standard rack to be BD #.3 to #3.

For my experience in Zion at least two #.3 to 3, a 4 or two, and a 5 or two. If it says up to 7" and you haven't climbed in Zion you may want up to a 7. Buy and consult the Zion supertopo guidebook, it's well worth it. It's sandstone, not always well cleaned and generally has some offwidths and/or strange sections. Never climbed the route in question though, part of the Zion adventure is going out on your own.

i see what you did there josh...

Standard rack for ZNP

in BD

2 or 3 X BD.3-3 or4 (at least one 4)

almost always a BD 5 this route its nice and protect right of the deck of the second pitch. i would say if you got it flaunt it.

Offset nuts are almost always nice, this climb takes them well

alpine draws not short draws.

Birds rack is in Inches not BD cams so 7in means Number 6 BD some routes are made less pant filling with a VG 9 but its not required and not many have one to bring anyway fairly rare cam for people to have

For that route the standard rack listed is acceptable, there are however two very run-out (by most standards) chimneys that are not as secure as you would like so it may feel hard. not to knock you trying. go get it if you want it. there is also choss (big surprise) my friend got hit with a block last year...two years ago...who remembers but it was big and it tagged him and fortunately he got a bruise and nothing lasting for his trouble.

obviously follow the book, know what size you are bad at and bring more of it.

I did not really care for that route and if it was my only route of the day i would be disappointed. however right next door are a variety of awesome routes. Folks climb this line because its moderate. most moderates in Zion are kinda junk YMMV. however right next door is the Chastity crack with two fun (i mean really type 1 fun) 5.9 hand cracks with bolted anchors and a 5.11 (goes at C1) pitch that has a very short early fingers crux followed by an awesome BD 2's steep hand crack to a comfy ledge, its not to be missed.
if OW is good with you hoods in the woods is fairly fun

have a good time

Thanks for all the help!

Rob,

My friend and I can *almost* get 5.11- granite and sandstone cracks clean. We'd like to up our multipitch game and we were looking at Zion because of the early season climbing and steepness / exposure of the walls. We'd like to prep for alpine climbing season (Wind Rivers, Elephant Rock, etc)

Here are the following lines that look do-able for two guys like ourselves. Either the crux is short or worst case can be aided. Assuming we don't get any stronger than we are now...

Tatoween, 5.11a
Smashmouth, 5.11a
Man Eater, 5.10+ A0
Take Back the Rainbow, 5.10 b/c

I looked into the ones below, but our offwidth experience is damn near zero:

Shune's Buttress, 5.11+
Astrolizard,5.11+
Settlers Line, 5.10+

Anyway, I'm looking for the type of routes you mentioned above. Where the grade is 5.11+ or something, the crux is short or can be aided, and the route quality is high. I'd like to say that we're 5.10 trad climbers and we are pushing to get into the 11's...

All the routes above are 6+ pitches and I've only looked on this site so far. I still need to get guidebook.

Cheers,

I was not that impressed with Mythical Kings either... 2 out 5 stars was my assessment....it is plenty chossy even by Zion standards...single 70m works...I led all the pitches and the only time I used double C4 #3's and 4's was on the first pitch ...if not for where I set up the anchor, could do without doubles in those sizes...if I did it again, I would take a C4 #6 and leave the #5 at home just because they both can protect the start of 2 and a #6 also protects 5.

During the winter, much warmer routes at the comparable grade and length include More than a Woman, Immaculate Conception and Theater Goddess over on the Marys. Theatre Goddess being my favorite of those three.

You mention Smash Mouth and Take Back the Rainbow, both definitely worth doing and good afternoon sun. The top of Take Back can be quite wet this time of year.

Zion Free Climbs

Enjoy your climbing...cheers

if you have little experience with the wide, astro lizard in not yours to bag.

tattowine if a big big day...not a tone of offwidth per se but, wider crack abounds with some chimney and the 11 is solid off the deck and in your face if your not up to it.

you need to get on smash mouth. its great the pitches are short it raps with one rope, and the Larson Farr 11+ is right down the wall and its great as well.

man eater is great, however there are only two pitches that are of any quality the rest of the tower is kinda loose and low angle. still a cool top out. the last pitch is 11 something, however it has poor pro and very sandy rock.

take back the rainbow would be great though as Dow said possibly wet up top.

shunes could go, it would be hard to aid through the first pitch, the off width is short but super strenuous the traverse pitch is hard, has bad bolts and a decent opportunity to hit something. the pitch after is amazing. the rest is pretty damn good too.

hope that helps. its not a super friendly place if you cant get wide

Just to add...if Black Elk (5.11-) is at the top of your objective list in the Winds....I recommend working on the 2nd pitch of Cherry Crack (5.10+). Even though Black Elk's off width crux is 11- and Cherry's 2nd pitch is 5.10+ on MP....they are very comparable. Kung Fu Fighter's (5.11-) 2nd pitch is much easier in my opinion than Black Elk's off width and won't help you prepare much for Black Elk's crux. The 2nd pitch of Cherry Crack is more similar. And it is a sunny winter objective in the afternoons. If you will work on Cherry Crack during the winter and get it clean (which you can do on one lead vs having to split the pitches)...easy to work on due to accessibility.....nothing will stop you from getting Black Elk clean on-sight. Just a short section of wide. Black Elk is my favorite route in the Winds.

Enjoy