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Devil's Cabaña Boy
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.9 from 19
votes
Routes in The Outrage Wall
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A Fistful of Excuses S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Afro Juan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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British Invasion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Celestial Connection S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Celestial Omnibus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chile Piquín S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cleetus Walks the Plank S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cryin Brian S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Despachadora de Gomitas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Devil's Cabaña Boy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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El Hoyito S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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El Mono Dedo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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El Sendero Diablo (The Devil's Path) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Esperandote S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eternal Fatalist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fit for Life S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Flim Flam Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Grocals S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Habanero S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Habanero Sunday S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hechicero Oscuro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hurdy Gurdy Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Job Disgraced S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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La Marca del Pez S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Little Route Big Tufa S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Montezuma's Tufa S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mothership Connection S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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New Bolts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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No Excuses S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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No Remorse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Palm Sunday S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Photo Route (aka. Shoestring Hooker) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slippery Down Under (1st Pitch) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Steel Pulse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tacos de Trump S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tax Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Time for Livin' S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tu Primera Vez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Kurt Smith and Ned Harris - |
| Page Views: | 5,281 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jan 31, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
Description
This is a fantastic route - the second pitch of which climbs a wild, steep tufa system (the "tufa chandelier") and the third pitch joins with Time for Livin' for that route's crux. Although this could be viewed as an easier version of Time for Livin', the second pitch is worthy in its own right. The given ratings - and pitch count for that matter - in the current guidebooks are all a bit wonky so hopefully this will clarify:
P1 (5.11d): 11 bolts. The big black tufa and jugs lead to a thin face.
P2 (5.12b): 11 bolts. A hard move off the belay (or sneak left) to a powerful crux on edges, then follow fantastic tufas up before underclinging right.
P3 (5.12d): 15 bolts. Climb up off the belay to join with Time for Livin', then interesting climbing interspersed with rests to a final blind crux up and right over a bulge to the anchor.
P4 (5.12b): 9 bolts. Same as Time for Living' P6. Two tough sections separated by a no-hands rest; the second section involves a throw to a hidden pocket. A long runout through a cactus jungle and loose block maze leads to the top of the wall.
Descent: Rap straight down with a single 80m rope - otherwise use two ropes.
Rating this route is difficult. There are Potrero Chico grades and then there are grades in the rest of the world. Perhaps the overall effort required to send this baby is 5.13- (the given rating) but there are no moves on the route that would merit the 13 rating on their own. That said, several sections would be extremely hard to onsight (especially considering the lack of traffic this route receives).
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