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First time to ouray and general expectations for a first season of ice

Original Post
Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

I took my first ice class this past week and enjoyed it immensely, more so than rock. I'm hoping to head down to Ouray probably 3 times this year for 2 or 3 days each and try and get the mileage in. Additionally I'll try and hit all the normal front range ice when I can.

What can I expect in terms of mileage being a n00b at the ice park? For example, if I head to a local sport crag, I consider it a good day if I get say 10 routes in. Is it reasonable for a new ice climber to rack up 10 climbs per day in Ouray on a weekend or is it too crowded and or all the low grade WI3/3+ stuff is being horded by other n00bs.

Along that same line of thinking, what is a reasonable expectation for a first season? To start leading by seasons end? It seems like about 2 seasons or so would be needed to get the magical 150 pitches in..

Andy Nelson · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 336

I've gotten 10+ route days in Ouray (10 lap days are easy), but you have to be on the ball with moving your TR anchors and communicate well with other groups. Often I have found people very open to sharing top-ropes, it's all about being polite and respectful. For instance, if someones rope is strung all over the ground, after I'm done using it I will flake or coil it neatly out of the way of crampons, etc. Offer to give belays, share your tools, practice random acts of kindness. You will meet great people out there. Not all ice climbers are a-holes.

Certainly you can expect crowds the weekend of the festival. My best advice to get mileage on festival weekend is to sign up for clinics. Guaranteed time on the ice and coaching on how to improve. A good two hour clinic can really improve your technique - much faster than going out with friends.

I don't think there is a magical number of pitches although some would probably disagree. Experience based judgement is key. Practice placing screws on top-rope, learn how to read ice, climb in all kinds of conditions, stagger your tools, build your triangle, etc. I would say by the end of a good season you should feel confident to lead a short pitch of WI2. You should be able to look at an ice climb and think "I can lead that confidently and safely". Unlike sport climbs where you can push your limit all the time. TR, TR, TR until you feel good. Know your limits. Have fun!

Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

I was hoping to go the weekend of the 27th/28th, assuming of course that it is open.. Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Sounds like the place to get the mileage in for sure.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

I can get 10 laps in couple of hours if not less. Top rope soloing that is.

Kevin Zagorda · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 600

If you're there on the 27th, you might want to check out the Ice Bash that Steve House is organizing: facebook.com/events/6074883…

Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

What sort of static cord should I bring? I was planning on 30ft of 8mm. Should I bring 50ft instead? How far are the trees from the routes? Are ice screws useful for redirects?

Andy Nelson · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 336

30ft is fine as well as screws for redirect. Most trees are within 15ft of the canyon. Dial in your top-managed site skills and knowledge before going as some routes are best done by lowering the climber in and having them climb out.

iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

You will have a blast . You will climb until your arms stretch and your knuckles drag the ground and your calves will explode . But yes if you want to climb a lot of ice .... Ouray will not disappoint .

All that being said just remember , South Park is a good place to go when the school room is crowded , never been to ouray when it's crowded and not been able to run laps in South Park , the week of the fest excepted....If serious climbing is your goal then avoid the festival like the plague ! Every A- hole with more money than brains will be lined up 10 deep for every inch of ice up and down the gorge . If your going to the fest then enjoy being a spectator , hope you can get a clinic and that will probably be the only climbing you'll get ,unless you signed up months ago don't expect
To get a clinic .

Buy an ice park pass , yes you don't need one but the money spent is trivial and goes to a good cause . Plus the discounts provided will make up for some monies spent on the pass . Just about every place in Ouray offers some form of discount for park pass holders .

30' of static line is fine , I also carry 50' of 11mill but that's just me . Don't forget to take lots of lockers
And Asorted slings . As for being lowered into climbs , well that's up to you . Personally I don't like it
Esp around the bridge area , you have no contact with the person lowering you after you have gone over the edge and will enevitibily end up being lowered a light speed straight into the cave left spinning in space yelling and bashing into everything back first . I've had so many bad experiences with being lowered that I'll never ever allow anyone to lower me into the gorge .

Here's how I roll now .

I tie off one end of the rope to a tree and tie into the other end then using extra long slings on the same tree set the rope in guide mode in your ATC , with a stopper knot in the rope , unless your using a 70m rope then it will not normally be needed as a 70 set up this way is just long enough .
throw the loop down and rap like normal into the climb . When your at the bottom unclip your ATC , hang it on your harness ( remember your already tied in as usual) give three big tugs on the rop to alert your belayer your ready to climb who will then untie the stopper knot in the ATC you have set in guide mode and vola your on belay ready to climb in guide mode , now your belayer can get some better pics not just the usual ass shots, over the edge or topping out face shots .all the while keeping you safe n secure as you climb .

Don't worry about the rope tangling it's easy to fix on the way down , most of the time you will have no tangles anyway so it's a moot point . However everything being said if you plan on doing this a 70 m rope is a minimum and I use an 80m .

This only pertains to the bridge area , if you plan on using this method anywhere else in the park then you will need to adjust accordingly and tie the stopper knott .if your freakd out about the stopper knott then you can always thread a locker into the mix by using a figure 8 on a bight as the stopper knot and clipping a Locker into the loop. In 15 years of using this method I've never experienced any mishaps . So there ya go. Now everybody's happy .

Oh yea BTW , I'm not trying to be an asshole , but just some information from someone who has been going for years and offering a heads up .

MaxCat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 15

I am looking at taking my first trip to Ouray this week as well (25th-3rd). We just decided to look at Ouray as an alternative to Hyalite short notice. I've found this post very helpful! That being said, would anyone be willing to entertain a phone call of stupid questions or meet us when we roll in to town to give a quick 101 of the park? Of course, we're flexible to your schedule or will be bumming around until we figure out what's up. We're driving from NW Oregon so we're looking to maximize our time spent. Also happy to buy beer or tator tots for nice people!

I lead WI4 and my wife is a competent sport leader, so I anticipate her picking up the ice climbing quickly.

Ouray certainly seems easier to access the climbs and less approach headaches. Looks like an ice climbers glutenous dream! MORE ICE THAN I KNOW WHAT TO DO WITH!

I love Mountain Project. Thank you all! Happy holidays!

mary j · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 10

The ice is different than what you are probably used to. It's spray ice. Characteristic aerated and poky icicle structure. I found it useful to bring Tele ski type knee pads especially it your footwork gets sloppy by the end of the day.
My favorite is the Pic of Vic area for tr laps and Scottish gullies for leads. It's an awesome place and very climber friendly. Food is not the best but will do. Don't forget to check out the several hot springs in the area.
One thing is great about the park is the easy accessibility. Get an ushba self belay device and you can get trashed on solo tr's.
My boyfriend and I met there 4 years ago. It is quite magical!

Tom-onator · · trollfreesociety · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 790

Odds are you two met under the bridge area.

Please tell us more about your romantic encounter mary j

mary j · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 10

First time we met was in the gear shop, the rest is history :)

sandrock · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 120

Max,
two guidebooks are available, one is Jack Robert's Colorado Ice which covers the Ice Park and the rest of the san juan area. The other is just Ice Park climbs. Both are for sale at Ouray Mountain Sports in town.

They've had some warm weather so check out the conditions report on the ice park website or facebook to see what area of the ice park is open.

George Marsden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 0

OP:
10 laps should be no issue on easier ice if you are fit and have good anchor building, rope management and social skills.

One thing to keep in mind when climbing at the park is that when the park is busy most of the easier climbs are "hero ice" - stepped out and hooked out. I can come off the couch (and I mean seriously out of shape) and still top rope a full pitch of WI 4 in the park without much trouble. Ice of that grade in the mountains would kick my ass. Keep this in mind as you move out of the park and heavily hacked up Front Range top rope areas.

maryj:
My wife and I got married at the ice park 11 years ago this coming March. We went with the CO "do-it-yourself" option and did the service with a few friends in attendance on the viewing platform across from the Scottish Gullies. Our vows included "To love, honor , and belay."

mary j · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 10
George Marsden wrote:OP: 10 laps should be no issue on easier ice if you are fit and have good anchor building, rope management and social skills. One thing to keep in mind when climbing at the park is that when the park is busy most of the easier climbs are "hero ice" - stepped out and hooked out. I can come off the couch (and I mean seriously out of shape) and still top rope a full pitch of WI 4 in the park without much trouble. Ice of that grade in the mountains would kick my ass. Keep this in mind as you move out of the park and heavily hacked up Front Range top rope areas. maryj: My wife and I got married at the ice park 11 years ago this coming March. We went with the CO "do-it-yourself" option and did the service with a few friends in attendance on the viewing platform across from the Scottish Gullies. Our vows included "To love, honor , and belay."
Very nICE!
climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

As of yesterday the park was still closed. Be sure to check the FB page or call to make sure it's open. If not Bozeman may be a better option.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

Maxcat, the Park is going to open on Friday after Christmas day, only the South side of the park is going to be open though (that's the Upper bridge and up river from it). When you enter the park from the Cnty Road 361 (AKA Camp Bird Mine Rd.), there is a little shack "Dick's Chalet" just by the gate, they should have park maps to help you orient yourselves.

The ice farmers have really figured things out in the past few years, and the quality of ice is no different than any naturally formed ice. The only thing to watch out for is the big bulges that build up on top of the climbs after big snow. PM me if you need any other local info.

Joanna Spindler · · Ouray, CO/ Telluride, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 55

GET A SOLOING DEVICE.
I climb on the Petzl mini traxion:

outdoorgearlab.com/Hauling-…

and, of course, back it up, as recommended, and make sure you are really familiar with how to use it before you hop on a pitch, and always take a prussik so you can unweight the device if need be, etc. etc.
It's super empowering and you can get hella laps, without needing to have a partner.
As we're always talking about within ice climbing, having a ton of pitches under your belt is KEY to lead readiness. Using a soloing device gets you the mileage you need! I've easily surpassed 12 pitches/day at the ice park by soloing, hurrah for training.

I also highly recommend visiting Ouray during midweek and non-festival times if you're all about the mileage. That said, ice climbers are the nicest people ever, so your stoke will also increase exponentially by being around these cool folks during higher capacity times.

Good luck, welcome to the wild world of ice, have fun!

Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

Thanks for all the replies. The park is incredible, thin ice or not. I was able to get 7 laps in at South Park, before my calves were pretty much completely pumped out. I guess I need to train more....

SavvageA · · North Pole, AK · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 20

More training. More sitting in hot tubs.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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