Movement's New Denver Climbing Gym

Tony B wrote: Actually, that's the Denver mayor. Have a good night!

Who isn't from Denver.

James Hicks wrote:Annnnyywayyy....socio-economic discussions aside I have some pertinent info to pass along. Anyone who may have signed up at the Denver Movement and then went and used said membership at the Boulder gym should check their bank accounts. Me and my gf got antsy/too hung over to go do anything outside the weekend before last and decided to just head up to the Boulder gym. We figured that would kick off our membership and we would be charged, so no problem there really. But today we got charged again, this time with a pro-rated amount for the month of December. I spoke to Movement tonight but there was no one there at this time who could do anything about it. They are supposed to call me back in the morning to straighten it out. But I just wanted to give a public service announcement for anyone else who may have done the same thing we did.

I appreciate your contribution to this forum.

Who Dat wrote: Who isn't from Denver.

So a guy who moved to Denver when he was baby, grew up and went to school in Denver, is not considered "from Denver"? For someone that makes a lot of excuses for yourself, you sure have a stringent standard for others.

reboot wrote: For someone that makes a lot of excuses for yourself, you sure have a stringent standard for others.

You'd almost wonder what right a 'stinky hippy' had to be so judgmental, wouldn't you?

Damn, I was hoping to open this thread since Movement opened and hear about how the new gym is... the quality of setting and so on.

Instead, this thread has almost nothing of value, outside of some membership info (which you can find on any gym's website).

Ryan Pachmayer wrote:Damn, I was hoping to open this thread since Movement opened and hear about how the new gym is... the quality of setting and so on. Instead, this thread has almost nothing of value, outside of some membership info (which you can find on any gym's website).

I went there Sunday and climbed 4 routes. It was a good time. It wasnt tough to find a route to climb at the grade i wanted (5.9-5.10) and wasnt too crowded (although that could change). I found the routes to be fun and they used the features on the wall to make some good varied climbing. Now thats just 4 routes so will have to see how the rest of them are but I like it so far. Gonna head over there tonight for some climbing.

This gym is really, really good. I think, even better than the Boulder location which is also quite good. At least the routes; I have not tried any of the bouldering.

The routes are well-set, very tall, and the holds are brand-new and full of friction. Like A LOT of friction.

The routes are identified by hold color as opposed to tape.

While climbing up the tallest part of the lead wall, I checked my knot - it feels surprisingly high up there!

The ergonomics are also good. We went on Sunday during the snowstorm (one day after it opened). Busy but the space handled it well.

Really good gym in a convenient location for central Denver.

Solid "A".

For feedback about the actual gym, I've been twice, I'll offer what I can.

I only have led and I only have climbed routes on the big overhanging wall.

First, the routes are usually a bit soft but that doesn't matter because they are consistent. Numbers don't matter much as long as you've got a baseline to work with.

The routes are smooth. What I mean is that they gradually build and use the length and angle to build a pump. I haven't encountered a single route that I come down from and declare "stupid". I also haven't been on any routes that I felt unsafe about doing the move prior to the clipping stance.

What I haven't found are any routes where you need to be a minimum height to climb them. I also haven't found ones that one would describe as thrutchy. There are no routes that I have done that worried me either for finger or shoulder injuries.

The right most crack is probably 11a/b if you keep your feet only on the brown.

Overall, the parts I am using are ideal for the goal of improving sport climbing. There is a lot more to the gym that I'm not using so I can't speak for that.

Who Dat wrote: Wow. 2 examples. Neither of whom are from Denver. Impressive.. I'm guessing you're no logician. I doubt you possess even an iota of Cartesian common sense. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forma… en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_… Or Wikipedia just the commie rag? The wealth of ignorance on this forum is astounding. There are reasons the rest of the world thinks Americans are stupid, lazy, ethnocentric ignoramuses. Rightly so.

dude, didn't you provide a gym in summit county as an example? that's not exactly denver either.... other than that, the only thing i can say is i don't really want fries, thanks...

I second that the routes are soft but consistent. Generally smooth going.

I would like more in the training area (i.e. atomic bombs, peg board, hangboards, rings, etc.), but I guess that's all on the way.

So far, so good.

This is a great gym, nicer than the Boulder branch. I won't make the extra 40 minute drive every time, but it'll be worth it fairly often.

I won't repeat Nice's comments, just agree.

I did boulder a little. It's a long corridor with facing walls but with plenty of distance so no need to land on top of anybody. Good mix of vert and steep. I missed the cave, supposed to be similar to the one in boulder.

Good workout areas, variable angle system board. Looks like they are still working on the campus board.

A little cold belaying, consider taking a jacket until they perfect the heating. Good sending temps though!

Really a first class job by Mike and AnneWorley.

I climbed at Movement this weekend. It was clean, but I wasn't too impressed with the routesetting. I was similarly not impressed with the routes at Earth Treks in Golden when I went there. I think this is because the routesetters are limited by the holds, they are limited to a single color per route.

Here is what I climbed:
On the steep wall:
Led 5.10a - pink - boring jug haul, the grade is for endurance.
Led 5.11a - blue - the stalagtite - the stalagtite is pretty darn cool, otherwise a boring jug haul. Lots of rope drag going over the edges.
Led 5.10c - yellow - boring jug haul, except for one interesting part which was a bit too far away for my short arms.
Led 5.11b - pink - this was the best one on the "steep" wall. It had interesting movements (finally!)
Led 5.10b/c - Blue - over the arch - interesting, but a bit too reachy.
TR - 5.11b or c - Black - in the corner by the bridge - this one was a pretty good route, interesting, but slightly reachy.

It seems like the routesetters makes the route more difficult with farther spaced holds to make it difficult, and not with interesting body movement. Routesetters should think about options for short people, although in all fairness I'm 4'10" with even shorter arms, which is extreme. That being said, the grades are a bit soft compared to outside, and I can't say they are the same across the board. For example, the 5.11a stalagtite seemed easier than the 5.10b/c over the arch route. Or maybe I got tired.

There are no naturals, although the wall is like sandpaper. The holds are too friction-y, and hands get raw after a while. The features do not seem to be that interesting, very geometrical. I realize that too many naturals or features limits the imagination of the route settter but I have seen interesting spaces with great routes. This type of route seems to be one route per section, and do not overlap. Except when I was climbing the 5.10c I had to wait for the guy next to me to move out the way.

The holds look like button candy, same color too, so when I look across the room it looks like old-fashioned button candy.
Seems smaller than Earth Treks. I'm not a personal fan of the open layout of either.

The rope we used there was super stiff, then got super curly. I use a grigri so that wasn't good for it. Bring your own rope, although they require a 40m rope, a 30m gym rope won't cut it.

Please take my initial impressions with a grain of salt, I'm partial to the BRC even though I only started climbing there a few months ago, I visited several gyms and it had the look (not so surgical, interesting organic design) and vibe (great routes, people aren't as flashy) I liked the most. I realize I may be in the minority since the younger crowd goes to Movement, I don't know if I am young or an old-timer, probably an old timer at 33. I make the drive to the BRC despite it being a 50 min drive from me instead of 20 min to Movement Denver or 15 min to Earth Treks.

One thing I've found: I can't judge a gym until I've been climbing there for about a month.

Too much of what I'll initially think I dislike is really stuff that is just different, and not worse. But in the beginning it all too often seems "worse."

Movement is a great facility.

Honestly, I would have rather seen more routes than such an open layout, but it makes for an appealing space. I don't like their lead rope policy at all.

But it's a fun space, and the very soft grades make you feel tough.

It's too expensive, sadly, but I'm sure it wasn't cheap to build.

It's location is infinitely more convenient than any other gym in the metro area of you live/work central, and that's honestly the deciding factor.

Had a great session on Saturday. Really appreciated the differences in wall angles, both on the bouldering "wave" as well as in the main climbing area--it felt like there was quite a variety of route styles from which to choose. At 50 feet, the walls felt like a great height for an indoor gym. There were a lot of people there on Sat., but there were always open routes of pretty much every ability level. I do like the open layout--you aren't tripping on other climbers' ropes as you try to get to your route, and the space is very bright, mostly lit with natural light. Definitely the best option for indoor climbing in Denver.

The facility is great and so close to home it's impossible to say no. That being said, Ana's comments are right on. So far, the routes I've been on seem to focus on endurance, rather than technical challenge. While it would be easy to focus on grades, I think there is a more interesting question: What do you want out of your gym experience?
My sessions at Movement have been very high mileage. That seems good. On the other hand, I haven't been confronted with any real challenges to my technical skills. So far, I'm climbing two letter grades to a full grade higher than I do at R&J. And stuff at my limit hasn't remotely shut me down. It's great for the ego, but I'm hoping the route setters will put up more technical and cruxy stuff.
What do you all think about this? What's a good ratio between flow-y endurance routes and techy-cruxy routes?

I've had a lot of the same impressions as others. I definitely want to see more technical, challenging climbs. I don't want a gym that is only for training (although I think that needs to be supported too) - so I'd love to see more routes that are fun to climb with interesting moves. I'm not concerned about the level of routes I climb here versus elsewhere, as long as there are routes that I can't do. As a mid 5.10s outdoor lead climber, that should be easy - although on the TR walls, I've been able to make it up all but 2 climbs so far - more technical challenge please. I could lead more, but that is a different skillset from pure climbing technique, which is what I am currently trying to work on.

But they did just open about a week ago. I'm hoping they fill in routes a little more - as someone pointed out most of the routes are straight up and don't overlap. I could see them easily doubling the number of routes, which would allow for a lot more variety. We'll see if that is what they choose to do, or if they keep it like it is and just replace routes with new ones. Anyone with experience at the Movement in Boulder comment on their routes? I've consistently heard that people like them relative to other gyms. Hopefully the Denver Movement will follow suit.

Movement's convenience allows me to get there much more often than any other gym in Denver other than DBC, but I don't want want bouldering as my only option.

Victor (and Ana).

I'm coming from a different place than you. I actually feel that highly technical routes are a detriment to training. My goals in gym training are endurance, power endurance, and not getting injured.

To accomplish this, I need steep and long routes with no shouldery or fingery cruxes. I am also a big proponent of some gospel from "The Cyclists Training Bible", ie, if you train so hard that you have to take many days off to recover, you've lost fitness. I can't leave the gym with tweaked shoulders and throbbing fingers. If I do, I've had a setback.

You might call it boring, I call it training.

For my goals, to be performance oriented and to utilize the gym to regain previous sending levels, it is an ideal space. I suppose if I wanted to work 5.10 and gossip, I might want more "interesting" setting. I suppose I could go to the bar with my climbing friends and accomplish the same.

Ana, my fiance is 4'9" and she's been thrilled that the route setting there is not reachy. I think Lynn Hill once said, there are no reach problems, only power problems.

It occurs to me they could do both. Weird 5.10's for the social climbers. Steady 12's and 13's for the number oriented folks.

I've climbed a majority of the 10's & 11's since the opening and while I'll agree that it's about three letter grades soft and there are not so many crimpy climbs, I felt that the routes were well set and super fun. And, anyone who's fingers get torn up probably did not climb enough this summer/fall.

nicelegs wrote:Victor (and Ana). I'm coming from a different place than you. I actually feel that highly technical routes are a detriment to training. My goals in gym training are endurance, power endurance, and not getting injured. To accomplish this, I need steep and long routes with no shouldery or fingery cruxes. I am also a big proponent of some gospel from "The Cyclists Training Bible", ie, if you train so hard that you have to take many days off to recover, you've lost fitness. I can't leave the gym with tweaked shoulders and throbbing fingers. If I do, I've had a setback. You might call it boring, I call it training. For my goals, to be performance oriented and to utilize the gym to regain previous sending levels, it is an ideal space. I suppose if I wanted to work 5.10 and gossip, I might want more "interesting" setting. I suppose I could go to the bar with my climbing friends and accomplish the same. Ana, my fiance is 4'9" and she's been thrilled that the route setting there is not reachy. I think Lynn Hill once said, there are no reach problems, only power problems.

That's a positive perspective, regarding long, boring routes for endurance and power endurance. While that may be true, one might get similar benefits from laps on a HIT thingy. Part of the reason a gym is worth the expenditure rather than using a hangboard at home is because it's so fun, I forget I'm working out/training. Fun routes contribute to the enjoyment, resulting in a longer gym session. I don't have any finger issues yet but I rarely use a hangboard cuz it's so boring, and if I do, it lasts like 5 minutes and feels like work the whole time.

I don't mean to say all the routes at Movement was boring, some were interesting, there are tradeoffs to having all the holds the same color, and it's a nice gym, and the staff were all really nice.

It's defnitely positive thinking to say there are no reachy problems, only power problems, and Yes maybe sometimes it's my poor excuse. However, I believe it does exist, fiancee knows the situation or she woudn't have mentioned that Movement is OK. I agree with a little more power some things can work, but some things are more than that. As an exaggerated illustration if an entire gym route had let's say 2 holds, the first one 17 feet off the ground, only a 10-15 foot person could really get up it, and a physical impossibility for all the rest.

Definitely I can be stronger than I currently am, so I should focus on what I can change. nicelegs, if she has time, maybe I can climb with your fiancee some time?! It'd be cool to get beta from her.