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What does your Woody look like???

JonMiller · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 50
llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130
JonMiller wrote:
Nice, regarding the painting. how did you solve the issue of the paint ripping when you remove the holds?. If you did. can you detail the painting process?.

Tks.
JonMiller · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 50
Sanllan wrote: Nice, regarding the painting. how did you solve the issue of the paint ripping when you remove the holds?. If you did. can you detail the painting process?. Tks.
Thanks,
I haven't removed too many holds at this point. The few that I have removed did have a little paint peel but not that noticeable. I applied two coats of Kilz 2 primer prior to painting. It seems to hold up.

Honestly, I don't mind the character development of the woody in any form, scuffs and paint peel included.
Michael Schneiter · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 10,406

The wife and I bought a house this fall and despite her insistence that I get other house projects done first, I made the building of a home woody a top priority. Of course, I argued that I couldn't properly get other projects done, like building storage shelves and organizing things, until the wall was done.

I spent a lot of time looking through this thread and really appreciated all of the ideas and tips I got from everyone's posts. So, thanks! Now, I'm happy to share what I did.

We have a single car garage and we need to use our garage for more than just a wall. We have a big need for functional storage for our family of five and all of our many hobbies and guiding business. The garage had an attic/storage room above that limited the height so I removed a good chunk of that out and then built from there. I did a bunch of creative framing and added insulation to the exterior walls.

I ended up with a small vertical wall (4 feet wide and 8 feet tall) that is mostly for the kids and a 12 foot wide section of 35 degree wall that is 10 feet tall for all but 4 feet of it. I was going to go steeper, like 45 degrees, but at the height I wanted, I was going to be falling on to my work bench and other shelving in the garage. So, 35 degree is what I settled on. Then, I have a 15 degree wall that is 10 feet tall and about 6 feet wide. I still have a campus board and some other training implements to install but it's otherwise set. I have storage behind both walls that is easily accessible, making the wife happy!

I also added more pics of the process here

Garage in original state.

Wall in progress

Panels going up

Far left of home wall. A vertical section on the left for the kids. Access to storage behind the 35 degree wall and the left edge of the 35 wall.

Middle of home wall with the 35 degree wall and the left ledge of the 15 degree wall. I left the corner open so I could more easily access storage behind the wall but I may put a panel there that is on a door. As it is, it's still easy to traverse between the two walls.

Far right of home wall with the 15 degree wall on the right.

Family climbing time

Daughter climbing

llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130
Michael Schneiter wrote:The wife and I bought a house this fall and despite her insistence that I get other house projects done first...
That was going to be my introduction when(if) I finish and post my woody. how did you get into my head? are you spying on us?.

Now to the serious matter. I notice that you have some bolts in your 15 deg. wall. can i know the reason?

And for the 35 deg. what size is your kicker?

tks
Michael Schneiter · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 10,406
Sanllan wrote: That was going to be my introduction when(if) I finish and post my woody. how did you get into my head? are you spying on us?.
Ha ha. I'm sure this is a common deal for a lot of us. Now my wife loves that I finished the woody before other projects, which are endless it seems, because our kids and the neighborhood kids climb on the wall a ton and give her some peace and quiet in the house.

Sanllan wrote: Now to the serious matter. I notice that you have some bolts in your 15 deg. wall. can i know the reason?
I put in some old hangers so I could string up a cord and hang gear to dry after ice climbing. And, I play around and practice knots, anchors, and systems. Plus, my five year old asked me to teach her how to lead climb so I put up a bunch really close together so she could "lead" climb. Of course, they are not super bomber but for a kid weighing about 40 pounds they are fine.

My five year old daughter asked me to teach her how to lead climb.

Sanllan wrote:And for the 35 deg. what size is your kicker? tks
I think my kicker panel measured 12" when I cut it and is closer to 10 or 11" of exposed panel after I put the panels up.
Brett R · · Cary, IL · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 75

Great projects here! Didn't see this one before making a thread for my wall: mountainproject.com/v/the-c…

Happy building!

llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130
Michael Schneiter wrote: I put in some old hangers so I could string up a cord and hang gear to dry after ice climbing.
Nice idea.

So the hangers are attached to the t-nuts?. i bought a pair of hanging balls ( threeballclimbing.com/3-inc…) to put in my future woody.

It will have a roof and was thinking to put hangers attached just to the t-nuts. you say its not bomber (i thought it was).

Just for hanging and doing pull-ups (not falling) you think it will hold up? (3/4 plywood)

tks
Michael Schneiter · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 10,406
Sanllan wrote: Nice idea. So the hangers are attached to the t-nuts?. i bought a pair of hanging balls ( threeballclimbing.com/3-inc…) to put in my future woody. It will have a roof and was thinking to put hangers attached just to the t-nuts. you say its not bomber (i thought it was). Just for hanging and doing pull-ups (not falling) you think it will hold up? (3/4 plywood) tks
Yes, my hangers are just attached to the T nuts. I'm not worried about the little mini whippers my daughter is taking on them. For just hanging then I think you're fine although I've seen T nuts pull through 3/4 plywood after repeated use and abuse. If you have any doubt, you could add some additional backing or something else to help dissipate the load. I'd also like to get some of those beast balls. They look like fun training tools. I would think 3 ball has instructions about how best to hang them.
llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130
Michael Schneiter wrote: think 3 ball has instructions about how best to hang them.
i´ll check out,

I bought synrock 3.5" (the texture is great), and other ones made of wood 3".
Doug Lintz · · Kearney, NE · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,196

It's almost complete. I just have the right side of the 45 degree section to fill in. Almost 15 feet tall and 40 feet wide at the base.

Woody

llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130

In a tall wall where you lead how do they make the hangers bomber?.

bigger washer? and still relay on the plywood?. couple of years ago a friend did a dynamic move to a big jug. The plywood was of bad quality (it was indoors and no more than 10 ft.), in the pendulum the plywood broke (nothing serious happened but there was a silence that seem really long at the moment)the hole in the plywood was bigger than my fist (that's more than 4 1/2 inches).

Same scenario but in a lead wall and instead of pulling a jug you are pulling the hanger. not even a washer of 2" diameter will stop the fall.

drilling the 2"X4" joist behind the plywood and expand the anchor as outdoors) when getting it tight the bolt will expand. this will be safe enough?

In normal gym walls (not the multimillion dollar type) how they do it?

llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130
Doug Lintz wrote:It's almost complete. I just have the right side of the 45 degree section to fill in.
Amazing. This looks like what i refer as a normal gym wall.

which diameter are those orange balls?
BCarlson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 40
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Block…

Put a couple pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 between the studs. I put 2 on edge as close as possible on either side of the t-nut/bolt/hanger and sunk a bunch of screws through the ply into the blocking. If you're concerned with the ply blowing out you can stack 2 2x6 flat between the studs and then run bolt through the 2x6 and put a big washer & nut on the back.

- Doug - Great wall! I recognize some of those old Pusher holds (the green butt hah). I like your transition from the 15 degree to right section. How big is your space overall?

- Michael - My kid just turned 2, can't wait to get him climbing more. That's awesome your daughter is interested in climbing and asked you to teach her how to lead. How big is your crash pad & where did you get it? I'm looking for a large pad like yours.

Clean slate.

I've finally finished my winter hold tear down & cleaning. I think I may have to invest in an old used dishwasher, scrubbing all those holds by hand took a long time. Time to set some routes.
Doug Lintz · · Kearney, NE · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,196

Sanllan, the orange balls are the large (4.5 inch) Atomik Bombs.

BCarlson, that transition piece between the two angles was way more difficult to cut than I had anticipated. Beveling the sides to make it fit cleaner was trickier than beveling the sides of my green volume. My home wall is in a 30x50' metal outbuilding. You can't really tell in the pic but the main structure continues to the right, turns a corner and continues towards where I'm standing taking the photo. It ends at a doorway where the bombs and a hangboard are set up. I built a transition in the corner to avoid the walls meeting at 90 degrees.

Old school Pusher holds...love 'em. Those were the first set I purchased back in 1997 (4 home woodies ago). $66 for five holds back then! Pusher still makes a few of those shapes, a comparable set today is about $140.

Andy Librande · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2005 · Points: 1,880
BCarlson wrote: I've finally finished my winter hold tear down & cleaning. I think I may have to invest in an old used dishwasher, scrubbing all those holds by hand took a long time. Time to set some routes.
Have you tried just putting them in vinegar and letting them soak? Seems to work really well for home walls and removes most of the rubber/grime. For many of my nice large holds it returns them to near-new qualities.

sick outdoor wall btw!!!
Michael Schneiter · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 10,406
BCarlson wrote:How big is your crash pad & where did you get it? I'm looking for a large pad like yours.
I got lucky and was able to snag that from our college climbing wall where I work as an adjunct. They upgraded and got all new pads from Asana, which are not cheap. The old ones were getting tossed out so I scored one that fit my space perfectly. I'm not sure where you would get it normally. I think they are more of a gymnast pad but cost a lot of money, like you would with the sweet pads from Asana and others.
Trycycle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 699

In commercial gyms the bolts are placed through the structural steel, turnbuckles, or built into the wood frame and backed up by steel cables. Any real fall onto a t-nut, would cause the t-nut to fail.

llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130

Hi all,

I want to give my wall some fine texture but still leave the wood color.

Can i add sand or shark grip to the primer?.

i´m thinking of applying a normal first prime coat and in the second coat, add fine sand (or shark grip) steering constantly.

will it work?

tks and happy new year

Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60
Sanllan wrote:Hi all, I want to give my wall some fine texture but still leave the wood color. Can i add sand or shark grip to the primer?. i´m thinking of applying a normal first prime coat and in the second coat, add fine sand (or shark grip) steering constantly. will it work? tks and happy new year
You could get a really light colored stain and mix the sand with that. Go light and the sand and put in two coats?

The negative of that is that where there isn't sand it will be really slippery for a while.

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