Adding anchors at Rumbling Bald

You nailed dude! I climb in a polo and sperry's...it's awesome!

Edit: Sperry's for the easier stuff and lace-up Cole Haans for everything else.

Tom C,
New bolt is for a new route put up on lead. The bolt keeps you off the ground at the crux and good gear the rest of the way to the anchor. It climbs at about 5.9 pulls bulge then climbs face to arete to anchor. Sorry if you feel it is a squeeze but the climbing is good and the route is a fun new addition for moderate leaders!
Cheers,
Pat

Jonathan Dull wrote:Edit: Sperry's for the easier stuff and lace-up Cole Haans for everything else.

I had no idea ;-) have u tried to new Cole Haan slip on? heard its great for slab climbing while hunting!

cole haan

Dang those are sick! You could climb the South Face of Stone Mountain while poppin' off .308 rounds at the deer in the field...probably wouldn't go over well with the Rangers though...oh well

Pat T wrote:Tom C, New bolt is for a new route put up on lead. The bolt keeps you off the ground at the crux and good gear the rest of the way to the anchor. It climbs at about 5.9 pulls bulge then climbs face to arete to anchor. Sorry if you feel it is a squeeze but the climbing is good and the route is a fun new addition for moderate leaders! Cheers, Pat

I would call a squeeze job anything you can clip from the route next to it, or if you can shake the guys hand on the route next to it. I believe this applies. You could have climbed the 5.8 ow into the arete up high. Did this bolt just get placed within the last couple of weeks? Someone I was with yesterday said they didn't remember seeing this three weeks ago.

Jonathan Dull wrote:Dang those are sick!

U think 5.10 will get on board with the new heel grips?

TomCaldwell wrote: I would call a squeeze job anything you can clip from the route next to it, or if you can shake the guys hand on the route next to it. I believe this applies. You could have climbed the 5.8 ow into the arete up high. Did this bolt just get placed within the last couple of weeks? Someone I was with yesterday said they didn't remember seeing this three weeks ago.

Put up on lead and still not holy enough...dang!

Morgan Patterson wrote: U think 5.10 will get on board with the new heel grips?

That would be nice...Pretty innovative, I'll give em' that.

BigCountry wrote:Speaking of bolts Be... how about 1 more on gorilla tactics? Wouldn't that route be so much more fun? I can't get Nathan to even talk about it. That would be a badass route all sport and it's one bolt away. Not like 3 or anything just 1

Gorilla Tactics isn't my route so I have no say over the addition of adding another bolt. I personally don't think it needs one, but this is something you'd have to take it up with Nathan. I seem to recall there being a bomber hand-sized cam at the lip, but I don't really remember.

I wonder if it could be lead on strictly pink tricams? I bet it could...

I know it's not your route Be! Wasn't asking you if I could put a bolt in. Just looking for input. Yeah that bomber cam still puts you in a tree if you blow it. Furthermore you could lead it in a pink tu tu with pink shoes and a pink ribbon in your hair for all I give a shit. I was just wondering for a fun opinion. Not gear beta. It's a killer route and props to Nate! I just think it's one bolt away from a classic. Guess I'm losing my hard trad status (if I ever had it)

I understand that you were looking for my input, and I feel like I gave it. I guess I was simply noting that in this case my input doesn't really matter. It's the FA's prerogative. If you haven't already been on it, Nathan's "Trundle from Down Under" is another cool pitch at Lower Hawksbill. I onsighted that thing and haven't been able to send it ever since! WTF!

It takes lots of pink tricams, btw.

Fucking hate pink tricams. I haven't been on trundle but shit I'll get on it when it warms back up.looks like a good forearm blaster like lots of lower bill. If I get on it and it sucks I blame you Be! (Wink nod)

Always got your back Tom. Been a while since I've seen you in my neighborhood though man! Hit me up sometime

I thought this thread was about bolts at the Bald?

BC, check your email (regarding Gorilla Tactics). Whichever account you messaged me from I responded back to months ago.

Well damn nathan! Was hoping you were checking up! Thanks for your response even though I figured out posting on MP my email savy is apparently lacking! Will try my best to find it! Thanks again man!(re edit prior post to say sorry and) I'm sorry I didn't know you responded Nathan.

Apparently this thread needs unearthing.

Rumbling Bald is a traditional crag. Many of these places exist in the US and around the world. I would be happy to name a few if you need. What that means is that bolting should be kept to a minimum to preserve the rock and more recently the access. This has been the nature of Rumbling Bald for over 50 years. This also goes for the boulders, meaning don't bolt boulder problems. First ascensionist's of past have followed these rules. The rules haven't changed.

Recently three bolts were placed that don't keep to this ethos. The first protection bolt was placed within arms length of another climb. Additionally, there is a 3rd class gully that runs next to this squeeze job that you can hike up above the bolt and easily place a cam in the horizontal above the bolt, then climb the squeeze. You can also clip this protection bolt from the climb next to it. Furthermore, the squeeze job moves could be protected with gear in the adjacent climb as well. The squeeze job only deviates from the original climb for ~20', where the difficult part of the climb is only 5' off the ground and only lasts 5' (aka a boulder problem).

Anchors were also placed by this same individual at the top of this short pillar. These anchors are retro bolts because they were placed on the other climbs route. The retro bolter did not have permission from the first ascension party to place bolts on their route. The problem with putting anchors here is that they don't service the original climb, because that climb doesn't end there. There are several routes that go off of this ledge, all which do not have access to these new anchors. There is already a rap station that services all of the routes, not just one. Not to mention, you can down climb this buttress via the third class gully, which is less than 40'.

The real reason I am writing this response is because of yesterday. When this topic was originally brought up, the retro bolter admitted they were wrong and that it was a squeeze job in an email. Considering the hardware wasn't removed, I guess they had a change of heart. Now all of the hangers are removed from these three bolts. The problem is that this retro bolter's resolve is just to replace the hangers, because "his friends like them" and that I am the only one who has an issue with this tactic. The truth is that I am the only one who brought it up because this topic was never truly vetted after they originally admitted they were wrong. Even worse, when the retrobolter discovered his missing hangers they said they would use titanium next time without even realizing only the hangers were removed! I've talked to several of the most prolific first ascensionists at the Bald and in NC who all agreed these bolts were wonky, a retro, and should be removed. When private and face to face communications break down, this is the only other solution... other than to continue removing the hardware. This person thinks this should be a matter of local consensus, so lets hear it locals.

The bolt and top anchors need to be removed. They are an eyesore and an unbelievable squeeze job. On top of that, this face has been tope roped many times. I've had people follow me as long as 20 years ago who didn't like to crack climb, and so just moved up enough to remove my cam, then moved over left and climbed the face until it joined the crack at the lower angle section. This isn't the only bolted boulder problem at the Bald, but the others I can think of at least don't intrude anywhere near this much on an existing climb or crack feature. If what Tom says is true, and you can scramble of the gully and place adequate gear to protect the start, it doesn't even seem as if there should be a debate. While it may be debatable if this was even an FA with the bolt, at least it can still be enjoyed by those who wish to climb it in a way that isn't unsightly and detracts from the aesthetics of the area. The rest of the climbing is also traditional, so that seems like a very good solution that should keep everyone happy, since it still allows for it to be safely lead.

I'm mostly just lurking. But I'm sitting here staring at the Test Pilots topo in my beautiful new copy of the Rumbling Bald Rock Climbs, and I can't figure out which 5.8 OW and associated climbs you're talking about. A little help?

Mark, here's a pic.

For reference.

Pull the bolts correctly and patch that sucker, spend a little time on it and it can be made to look like nothing was ever there.

Ah thanks Nathan, almost that same picture is in the book. Bolt is weak sauce, chop it.