I'm planning my first trip down to the stronghold this winter. Any recommendations for good introductory routes? I have Geir's topos and have done a decent amount of reading on the area. What are the best protected routes for someone's first time?
I've only been there once, but Ewephoria (5.7) on Sheepshead is essentially all bolted, so that's easy to protect. The approach is fairly short, and there are plenty of harder routes nearby if you want.
"What's my line" (5.6) is a super-fun route, and protects well if you know how to trucker-hitch giant chickenheads. This is a skill you should probably learn if you climb much in Cochise, anyways.
If you want a bolted route, head to the sport cliffs like Isle of Ewe or Zappa Wall etc. Ewephoria's first pitch is all gear and the bolts are fairly spread out on the rest of it.
The Sheepshead has a lot of routes, Ewephoria is one of them, and many have a lot of bolts but generally there are no pure sport climbs on the cliff, unless something has changed.
Like Geir said, what level are you looking to climb?
I'm looking for 5.6-5.7 range for this trip anyway. Ewephoria and What's my line have been on my list. I've placed gear on 5.9 single pitch and 5.6 multipitch, so the first pitch of Ewephoria seems do able.
First pitch of Ewephoria is awkward and polished, back then I was still concerned about sandbagging things and convinced myself it was about 5.8, today I'd probably call it 5.9
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