figure 8 v ATC

ROPE RIDERS wrote:I STILL BELEIVE THAT THE FIGURE 8 IS THE MOST USEFUL AND DIVERSE TOOL FOR RAPPELLING. MOST PEOPLE, EVEN THE SO CALLED EXPERTS, HAVE NO CLUE AS TO THE FULL RANGE OF USE OF THE FIGURE 8, INCLUDING THE FACT THAT THERE ARE 7 DIFFERENT WAYS TO RIG A FIGURE 8 FOR RAPPELLING PURPOSES. I OWN EVERY THING, FROM PLATES TO TUBES, FROM RACKS SELF LOCKERS, AND HAVE NEVER FOUND ANY THING THAT EVEN COMES CLOSE TO THE EFFECTIVENESS OF THE 8.

Over 25 years of climbing and still prefer an 8. I've used them all; but, only an 8 is so versatile. There are disadvantages to using an 8 for belay or rappel so users beware; however, much of the stated "disadvantages" are merely based on limited subjective opinion and second-hand opinion gathered from the internet. One advantage that has not been mentioned and is one of the biggest is that belaying or rappelling with double/twin ropes allows twists to pass through the device instead of forcing a belayer to un-knit the pile for the whole length of the pitch. My favorite is the ability to control the friction to the desired level manually versus having said friction applied statically as is done with so many of the devices designed for the unskilled multitudes of gym-born climbers today. Today's climber wants to rely on their device, not their own skill. There are huge advantages and dangerous disadvantages in relying on a device designed for a specific task. I prefer an 8 where I can choose when and how to apply appropriate friction for the situation at hand. To each their own.

This PDF is saved in my iBooks for letting others read if they have a fig 8. It describes a failure mode where the fig 8 levers open a locker and comes free. Slow static movements and a prussik backup reduce and or prevent complete failure.

theuiaa.org/upload_area/fil…

I'd like to add an additional rigging method to ROPE RIDERS post with pictures.

In the canyoneering world you can rig your figure 8, then pass the rope through the locking carabiner that hold the 8 to your harness. This additional bend adds friction without additionally twisting the rope more. It is a canyoneering technique I learned while taking a class from Rich Carlson. The rigging mode is called 'vertacco mode'.