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Bernerinnen Anstatt Klapperschlangen
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3 from 5
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Routes in Snakeskin Buttress
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Bernerinnen Anstatt Klapperschlangen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blood Meridian S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Caesar Salad S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mexican Gravy Leg S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rattler's Arête S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Snakeskin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | James Garret. 12/20/2000 |
| Page Views: | 2,087 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Craig Martin on Nov 4, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Something about preferring Bernese girls to rattlesnakes. This climb can be found on the east face of the Snakeskin Buttress. The start is in a recessed U-shaped Bowl. Look for a bolt at the start of the first pitch and a left facing dihedral above. This is a very fun climb for those who like old school style climbing. A few off-width moves and some physicality will get you through the second pitch. The last pitch requires some gumption to get started, make sure to get good pro before launching into it. We combined the first two pitches.
Pitch 1: Clip a bolt and climb up into a bowl like feature. Place some pro and pull through to the large ledge. The fixed anchor for this pitch is more a rap station than a belay. Belay here or continue up the next pitch for full value. 5.8, 15 Meters.
Pitch 2: Climb up the awesome left facing dihedral. End on a nice belay ledge with bolts. 5.9, 25 Meters.
Pitch 3: Continue up the dihedral past a steep spot above the belay. Then easier climbing to the top. 2 bolt belay. 5.9, 20 Meters.
Descent: Rappel the route from fixed anchors with one rope.
Pitch 1: Clip a bolt and climb up into a bowl like feature. Place some pro and pull through to the large ledge. The fixed anchor for this pitch is more a rap station than a belay. Belay here or continue up the next pitch for full value. 5.8, 15 Meters.
Pitch 2: Climb up the awesome left facing dihedral. End on a nice belay ledge with bolts. 5.9, 25 Meters.
Pitch 3: Continue up the dihedral past a steep spot above the belay. Then easier climbing to the top. 2 bolt belay. 5.9, 20 Meters.
Descent: Rappel the route from fixed anchors with one rope.
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