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El Potrero Chico: best routes for first timer

Original Post
Alipio Loyola · · Sao Jose da Barra, MG - Brazil · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 5

Hey everyone

Boarding to El Potrero Chico from Brazil with my girlfriend. We will stay at La Posada for 9 days of climbing, possibly starting tomorrow :)

Since it will be our first time there, does anyone recommend a few multipitch routes up to 5.10d?

We would like to try the classic and most beautiful lines.

All the best

Alipio.

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

Snot Girls, Space Boyz, Yankee Clipper, Satori. All great climbs. Just look at the classics on mountain project that's a pretty good run down. If Space Boyz and Snot Girlz are getting crowded then Satori might be empty, it stays less crowded due to longer approach but is super classic! I'll be down after Christmas.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

Estrellita is also a lovely classic -- it may be listed as 5.11, but that pitch has a 5.8 variation, and with that variation the climb goes at soft 5.10.

Satori, as mentioned above, is also a good climb -- but it has a much longer approach than much of the stuff at EPC.

jonathan.lipkin · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 70

I did estralita as my first climb at epc, and my first outdoor route after taking a few weeks off to rehab my shoulder. It's a gorgeous climb. Be careful of the easier climbs - the bolts are sometimes far apart, and if the climb is not popular, might have loose rock.

All the climbs mentioned above are great. If you are staying at Posada (and even if you stop by there to eat dinner), everyone was super friendly and willing to give advice about good routes.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Do some single pitch routes at Mota Wall first to get accustomed to the rock. Snot Girlz is over on that wall as it is. There's some really good lines there.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
Stich wrote:Do some single pitch routes at Mota Wall first to get accustomed to the rock. Snot Girlz is over on that wall as it is. There's some really good lines there.
Actually, yeah, spending your first day cragging is probably a good idea. I'd have suggested some stuff in the Virgin Canyon, rather than the Mota Wall, but both are good choices.
rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

+1
Space Boyz
Snott Girlz
Yankee Clipper
Satori

Other great routes
Agua de Coco
Baked Fresh Daily
Pitch Black
Poncho Villa
Treasure of Sierra Madre
Aguja Celo Rey
Off The Couch [next to Satori] and better IMHO

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
David Gibbs wrote: Actually, yeah, spending your first day cragging is probably a good idea. I'd have suggested some stuff in the Virgin Canyon, rather than the Mota Wall, but both are good choices.
This time of year you'll probably want the sun, and Mota doesn't go into shade like the other walls in narrow canyons do. But let the weather guide you there.
David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
Stich wrote: This time of year you'll probably want the sun, and Mota doesn't go into shade like the other walls in narrow canyons do. But let the weather guide you there.
I'm also Canadian, so perhaps more accustomed to climbing on cold rock. :)
Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115

Black cat bone

burlap submariner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 170

I worked as a guide down there for 3 years, during the busy season finding routes for clients is always a challenge but there are some great ones out there that are either hidden in plain view or just out of the way.

Will the Wolf Survive 10- Walk up Los Lobos canyon and its on the right, very obvious layback crack can be seen on the second pitch.

Pancho Villa Rides Again 10+ Mota Wall several routes to the right of Snott Girls (another classic but pancho is better and wayyy less polished).

Treasure of the Sierra Madre 10- uphill from the mota wall near upper sense of religion, there is a large pillar at the start.

Voodoo Trance 10+ This route is above the hanging harden accessed from climbing Jungle Mountaineering on the Jungle wall. Varied climbing with two very interesting crux sequences.

Enjoy your trip

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
David Gibbs wrote: I'm also Canadian, so perhaps more accustomed to climbing on cold rock. :)
I'll have to tell you the tale of the three visiting Canadian girls and the South African Girl and her Brit boyfriend. Late one night after heavy drinking, one of the Canadian girls threatens to use her kickboxing skills on the South African girl, to which she replies "If I tell him to headbutt you, you're fucking headbutted!" Apologies came over hangovers the next morning.
David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
Stich wrote: I'll have to tell you the tale of the three visiting Canadian girls and the South African Girl and her Brit boyfriend. Late one night after heavy drinking, one of the Canadian girls threatens to use her kickboxing skills on the South African girl, to which she replies "If I tell him to headbutt you, you're fucking headbutted!" Apologies came over hangovers the next morning.
Ah, drinking. Perhaps I should aim to moderate my consumption of tequila while down there. :)
Rob D · · Queens, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30

Estrellita was my first climb at potrero. My partner and I liked the idea of summiting something on day 1, and it was quite easy. If you skip the 5.11 pitch, I think there are only three pitches of 5.10 and the rest are easier. The summit is wonderful and there are only 4 rappels. You can also link most pitches so it gets done in 6-7 pitches instead of 12.
mountainproject.com/v/estre…

I also really enjoyed Super Nova. The first 5.11 pitch is stout by potrero standards, but from there it's 5.easy to the top. 8 pitches of FUN climbing. Beautiful photo op for day 1.
mountainproject.com/v/super…

Alipio Loyola · · Sao Jose da Barra, MG - Brazil · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 5

Just wanted to thank everyone for the contributions. Had amazing moments in EPC and will come back this year for sure.

BEsts

Alipio

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Good to hear, Alipio! What routes did you guys get on?

Alipio Loyola · · Sao Jose da Barra, MG - Brazil · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 5

Super Nova
Estrellita
Jungle Mountaineering
Las Chimuellas
Aguja Celo Rey
Team Hilti
Cactus Pile
Dope Ninja
Will The Wolf Survive
Snot Girlz
Many other routes at Virgin Wall...
...
Not sure if they are all there but we had a great time with the classics and will come back next season for more challenges!

Great place for climbing. Congrats to locals and thanks to everyone that made it possible.

Saludos

Alipio.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

International
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