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harness recommendation

Original Post
Wilson On The Drums · · Woodbury, MN · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 940

I am in desperate need of a new harness and it is surprisingly hard to sift through everything on the market right now. I currently have a Black Diamond Momentum and BD Focus. The focus is too small cause I gained some baby weight with the wife and the Momentum is old and in need of replacement. I mainly sport climb at the gym and the craig but do get out a few times a year to do some longer mulitpitch trad. I would like something with more than 4 gear loops. I tried on the Wild Country Summit but it did not fit in any size and had too many buckles. So I guess what I'm ideally looking for is:
more than 4 gear loops.
adjustable leg loops.
only one buckle for the waist.
full rated haul loop.
Thanks for any suggestions.

Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

I only question why u need more than 4 gear loops.

Nathan Flaim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Check out weighmyrack.com. It's a neat climbing resource (not porn I swear) that'll let you filter through all the harnesses on the market currently by specifying many of the traits you've listed. Granted it's no substitute for being able to try on a given rig, but it's a place to start. Good luck.

Steven Lee · · El Segundo, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 385

Misty Mountain's Cadillac (also avail in quick adjust) gets you mostly there - but there are two buckles for the waist.

They can probably customize it to 1 buckle if you email them.

I really like mine.

Wilson On The Drums · · Woodbury, MN · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 940

i guess i really don't need more than 4 gear loops. i'm a bit ocd and it's nice for organization is all.

Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67

BD aspect or xenos. They both meet all of your requirements. I have owned and liked both. The xenos is a little lighter and the padding is more comfortable, but I'm not sure it justifies the added cost

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
polloloco wrote:Misty Mountain's Cadillac (also avail in quick adjust) gets you mostly there - but there are two buckles for the waist. They can probably customize it to 1 buckle if you email them. I really like mine.
The MM Sonic is effectively the Cadillac with a single buckle.
Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436

Edelrid Orion is light, adjustable, and really comfortable.

I really like mine a lot.

climbing.com/gear/edelrid-o…

Alex McIntyre · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 546

The new Mad Rock Solar harness is both incredibly comfy and light. When you first pick it up,you'll be shocked by the apparent lack of padding, but after sitting at hanging belays and taking many, many sport falls both long and short in it (plus long hangdogging sessions) I assure you- it's great. It's designed in a way that distributes the pressure very evenly and comfortably. It's also very inexpensive (~$60).

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Jake Jones wrote:Why would you not want 4 buckles? If you're racking up somewhat heavy, then two waist buckles allows you to get everything dialed in and centered nicely. More often than not, with one buckle harnesses, I've found that if my belay loop is centered, then my front gear loops are not. I'm a 33 waist- maybe that has something to do with it. You really can't get much better than the MM Cadillac speed adjust.
I have never adjusted the second buckle on my Caddy. I have a Caddy with fixed legs, I should have bought a Sonic since I hate the six gear loops, second waist buckle, and adjustable legs. Great harness though. Lulz.
Wilson On The Drums · · Woodbury, MN · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 940

thanks for all the replies! after trying on multiple harnesses I realized I'm just gonna stick with the black diamond I have now. if it aint broke don't fix it right! i bought a .4 bd c4 and some slings because mine are worn past their life.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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