double clove hitches
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Hey I saw this set up on: dumbanchors.blogspot.com/ |
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Bowline? |
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The same people who think this is a problem, likely also have a problem with the quad anchor. |
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i don't see the problem with your set-up. but then again, my tolerance for risk is quite a bit higher than other MPers. i think the issue in the photo is that it would be better (fewer links in the chain) to just tie a fig 8/bowline follow through around the tree. if the boulder or tree was too big to sling i'd do the same thing. |
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matt c. wrote:Hey I saw this set up on: dumbanchors.blogspot.com/lol, Carderock and Great Falls must be a paradise of dumbass TR anchors to take pictures of! Possibly better than CT and I say this because #1) their are a ton of really anal topropers in CT that may only be 5.6 climbers but have anchor building skills of a 5.15 climber and #2)this DC area is the epitome of shit climbing. Every time I go there(family visits) I start thinking that its time to give up roped climbing and just go for it(in fact I did last time with Geoff?, the dude who got whacked in the head by his crazy partner) bolts would really help that shitshow out |
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Tensionless hitch? |
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The text for that double clove hitch photo is |
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Re-threaded figure 8. When you're done it looks like a figure 8 on a bight with the tree in the bight. |
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Robert Cort wrote:Tensionless hitch?Hands down the strongest anchor you can build on a tree with a rope. Since it relies on friction wraps, it retains the full strength of the rope. |
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Stich wrote: Hands down the strongest anchor you can build on a tree with a rope. Since it relies on friction wraps, it retains the full strength of the rope.The implication being that a Fig. 8 loop or bowline are somehow not strong enough??? |
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that anchor pic with 2 cloves is fine on dynamic rope ... |
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Gunkiemike wrote: The implication being that a Fig. 8 loop or bowline are somehow not strong enough???No, they are both great. I just love tensionless hitches, man. |
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Stich wrote: I just love tensionless hitches, man.Odds that Stich has this exact same thing written on his S&M profile? |
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marty funkhouser wrote: Odds that Stich has this exact same thing written on his S&M profile?Marty? That you? |
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bearbreeder wrote:that anchor pic with 2 cloves is fine on dynamic rope ... they even used a stopper and a big beefy oval biner ... the only thing i could even possibly suggest would be to use a 3 stage autolocking biner to prevent the slim possibility that the gate would get pressed in (note how the locking gate is faced away from the ground as well) alot of these "anchor freak out folks" need to get off their high horse about anchors that while not absolutely AMGA/ACMG perfect, arent the ones that are going to kill you as i said in the jive azz anchor thread, these folks make these pages not to "educate" folks or make the world a "safer place" but to nitpick and whine IMO if they REALLY want to do the right thing the would have a POLITE conversation with the parties involved first you see those types of folks at the crag all the time ... most of em cant climb their way out of a wet paper bag, are too afraid of their own shadow to lead, and have minimal experience beyond setting up a few TR anchors however they do shout very loudly about how "safe" they are and unsafe everyone else is ;)nice, thanks for climbing down off your high horse to ejukate us once again! |
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The advantage I see would be that this anchor allows for a fairly quick adjustment to the anchor arm length without having to tie and untie any knots. |
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Miike wrote: nice, thanks for climbing down off your high horse to ejukate us once again!no worries ... dont want you "learning" off those sites on yr next great TR adventure do we now ;) |
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As dumb-ass anchors go, that one looks reasonable to me. Ok, I'm assuming that is climbing rope -- which we generally treat as acceptable as a non-redundant part of the system. I'd like to have a second carabiner used, and there might be more efficient (less gear) way of doing things -- but to be dumb-ass, you really need something that is clearly unsafe. Heck, it is even a big tree that looks well-rooted. |
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matt c. wrote:Hey I saw this set up on: dumbanchors.blogspot.com/ I sometimes use this method when I use a large block as a belay anchor. It the block is too big to easily throw a loop around, I walk around the block then form the loop with the two clove hitches as shown here. The only differences is that put a figure eight on a bight to tighten the loop and to use it as a master point. Is there a better way to do this? Is the double clove hitches a problem?A bowline and a stopper would be neater, but I would suggest it would be better for the tree if you walked around it twice, then tied the knot. This stops the rope rubbing if it moves and spreads the load. |
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As I peruse through forums of Mountain Project, I look and see a rope that looks similar to mine and realize that that's my rope and my anchor, and all of these people are shitting all over it haha. Was this the most effective anchor system? nope. Could it have been safer, simpler? yep. Was I in a rush to get some climbs in before work? yep. So I threw some shit together. It wasn't dangerous, it held fine, and I'm here to tell the tale. I think it's hilarious how someone will go through the trouble to take some pictures and throw them on the internet, but lacks the basic social decency to introduce themselves and express their concerns. Well that's DC for you I guess, self-interested assholes pretending like they're important. I mean christ it's carderock, if you fall it's only like a 20 ft drop ;D But thanks for the tips everybody, I'm curious about that tensionless hitch. |
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Budd, it was second-hand by the time it got here. Your beef, if you have one, is with the Dumbass anchors guy. |