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The East Quarry Rock Climbing
Routes in The East Quarry
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Asbury Park T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13 |
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Battle of the Bulbus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bertha S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bluesfish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bottoms Up T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chum S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack Au Lait T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Curious George TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deepwater Horizon S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Deer Foot Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Defective Agency S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Emilia's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flying Fish S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gargoyle Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Good Ju-Ju T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Goonch, The TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Great Wide Shark T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Hairless Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Harambe Lives V4- 6B |
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Harambe's Mombé V4-5 6B+ |
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Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b A0 R |
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Herringbone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Herringbone Direct T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Hidden Slab V3- 6A |
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High Tide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Holy Mackerel S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Isle of Mouse T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jaws S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Land Shark T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Narrow Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Natural Born Topropers T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nurse Shark T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Old Man and the Sea S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Old Man And The Sea Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pigeon of the Sea S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pinkerton S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pinnacle 2 T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Play With Your Balls T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pretzel Logic S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Prow TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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S.S. Minnow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sand Dollar S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sand Shark T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sea Robin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sea Urchin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Side of Mouse TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slap Happy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tendonkey Punch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tiger Shark T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Tiger's Woody S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Weakfish S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wooly Bully S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Wooly Woody T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Elevation: | 6,259 ft |
| GPS: |
39.77286, -105.20459 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 119,047 total · 646/month |
| Shared By: | Kirk Miller on Feb 28, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Please Obey Speed Limits & Rim Rock Trail Closure
Details
It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adventurous.
Description
This can be a great place to hang when the wind is howling, but you might want to wear a helmet for the rocks that can be blown off the top. It is very sheltered from prevailing winds and stays sunny till late afternoon in the winter. The crag has seen some bold, ground up routes developed. Bolted top out anchors seem to be the norm on the crack climbs. In addition to the trad routes, several bolted sport climbs have been established.
Per ANGUS WIESSNER: this is also known as The Sport Quarry.
Getting There
There is another trail that can be used to access this crag. From the typical parking area (near the Easley to CO 58 on-ramp) you can go about 2 blocks further east to Ridge Rd. Turn north and go uphill. The road turns into Ulysses. Take it to its end. There's room for 5-6 cars here. The trail stays to the right ~100 yards from the lot to head up the valley. Take a left where the trail forks to continue up valley. Make a U-turn/left turn higher up in the valley to connect with the traversing trail that goes under the East Quarry. Mountain bikers use this trail, too.
Per Richard Border: you can plug this into your gps for the 1st parking area: 3850 Easley Rd, Golden, CO 80403.
L->R:
A1. Holy Mackerel, 10 R, 1p, 50', gear (now bolts).
A2. Natural Born Topropers, 8 or 9, 1p, 50', TR or gear (now bolts).
BA2. Hairless Dog, 12-, 1p, bolts, 50',
C. Pinkerton, 11+, 1p, bolts, 55'.
D. Sea Urchin, 10- PG-13, 1p, 50', gear (now some bolts).
E. Weakfish, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
F1. Defective Agency, 11-, 1p, bolts, 55'.
F2. Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack), 12 or A0, 1p, 50', bolt & gear.
G. Pretzel Logic, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. High Tide, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.
I1. Battle of the Bulbus, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
I2. Tendonkey Punch, 12, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
J. Sand Dollar , 10-, 1p, bolts.
K. Sand Shark, 10+, 1p, gear.
L. Asbury Park, 11, 1p, 40', TR.
M. Jaws, 11+ PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
N. Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait), 12- R, 1p, 45', gear & bolt.
O. Chum, 12, 1p, TR.
P. Herringbone Direct , 12+, 1p, 40', TR.
Q. Primary Chimney?
R. Herringbone, 10 PG-13, 1p, 35', gear.
S. Pigeon of the Sea, 11+, 1p, 35', bolts.
T. Slap Happy, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
U. Unnamed Contrived Seam In Between The Routes.
V. Play With Your Balls, 11-, 1p, 50', gear.
W. The Goonch, 13-, 1p, TR.
X. Flying Fish, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.
YX. Sea Robin aka "Old Hex Route" aka "n" crack, LFD, 8, 1p, 40', gear.
Z. Hammerhead, RFD, 10-, 1p, 40', gear.
AA. Nurse Shark, 9+, 1p, 40', gear.
BB1. Old Man and the Sea, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
BB2. Old Man And The Sea Direct, 11+ or 12+?, 1p, 45', bolts.
CC. Deepwater Horizon, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
DD. Land Shark, 11+, 1p, 40', gear.
EE. Bluesfish, 10 PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
FF. Wooly Bully, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
FFGGHH. Wooly Woody, 12+, 1p, 50, bolts & gear.
GG. Tiger Shark, 11- PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
HH. Tiger's Woody, 13-, 1p, 55', bolts.
II. S.S. Minnow, 7, 1p, 50', gear.
JJ. Bertha, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts or TR.
KK. Great Wide Shark, 8-, 1p, 40', gear.
LL1. Crack var., 9, 1p, 40', gear.
LL2. Emilia's Corner, 8+, 1p, 40', gear.
LL3. Dihedral var., 10+, 1p, 40', gear.
MM. Crack Au Lait, 8, 1p, 50', gear.
NNOO. Bottoms Up, 8 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
OO. Good Ju-Ju, 8+ 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
PPOO. Gargoyle Ju-Ju, 8+, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.
QQ. Deer Foot Chimney, 5 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
RR. Side of Mouse, 8+/9-, 1p, 50', TR.
SS. Isle of Mouse, 8, 1p, 50', gear & bolts or TR.
TTSS. Curious George, 8 (or 9), 1p, 45', TR.
UU. Pinnacle 2, 9- PG-13, 1p, 45', gear.
VV. Narrow Face, 10, 1p, 45', TR.
WW. Crack , 7+, 1p, 45', gear.
XX. Prow, 9+, 1p, 45', TR.
East Bluffs
A. Point Break, 9, 1p, 35', bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at The East Quarry
Sun Angles Details:
Weather Averages
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