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> Lower Town Wall
> (C) Main Wall, left side
Sagittarius
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 239 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | To ringing flake: Pat Timson, Don Harder. FFA to roof: Mark Moore. FFA P1 full: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson. P2: Terry Lien, Darryl Cramer |
Page Views: | 17,815 total · 80/month |
Shared By: | jonah on Feb 13, 2006 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Warning for the Great Northern Slab and Sonic Slab areas on the west (left) end
Details
In late Nov 2023, there was a significant rockfall encompassing the GNS, Sonic Slab, and Roger's Corner areas. There is still a ton of rock on the upper section that will very likely come down in the near future. This rock includes small and very large boulders. Please respect closures and avoid this region for the foreseeable future. For more information or updates please refer to the Climb Index! facebook page.
Description
Just to the left of Japanese Gardens is this obvious line of hand cracks and traversing roofs. Start on the ledges above the big stump on the trail and lieback a wide flare for about 10 feet to a short finger crack. Move right into a sweet steep handcrack, up into a wide (6"?) crack that traverses left. Clip the fixed chock before the traverse, and walk a # 5 Camalot to the end if you want to protect this section, or drag will become an issue. At the end of the traverse there is a set of anchors. Skip this and get into the chimney above it. Walk your #5 up this section again until the chimney narrows and you step out onto the face to commit to the perfect handcrack above. You'll hit the "ringing flake" here. Spooky. The handcrack cruises through it to the anchor up above (from which you can TR Iron Horse, too). A 5.11 variation goes through the roof above this anchor.
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