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Mechanical Animals
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.7 from 11
votes
Routes in Land of the Shorties
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1-8-7 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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El Fishador T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ghetto Toes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Greatful Deadpoint S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Half A Full Monte S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hopeful Monsters S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Jawbone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mechanical Animals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Monster Baiter S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pearl Jammin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Porcupining Away S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Proudest Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shoot the moon S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Short Steep Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sleeping Giant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sylvester Sidewalk S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Violet Sanctuary S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Bolted by Blake Workman. First sent by Lee Terveen |
| Page Views: | 1,458 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Oct 30, 2011 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Mechanical Animals starts on the same stone pedestal as Hopeful Monsters. Start just slightly left of the bolt line and don't be afraid to to use a few of Hopeful's beginning holds after clambering your way up some blocks. Claw you way up some small holds to a pair of mondo jugs that can serve as your first rest. The fun begins with a couple of drop-knee moves to small holds on really overhung terrain. Clip from a microjug and get set up for a flying sidepull and stab for a great left-hand hold. Get set up for a steep crux and launch for a strange, black pocket that bites back. Struggle your way to the anchors and scream. This route is definitely suited for rock star bouldering types who love super-steep, sustained, technical climbing with several powerful moves onto low probability holds right up until the desperate fight of a finish.
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