El Potrero Chico: best routes for first timer
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Hey everyone |
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Snot Girls, Space Boyz, Yankee Clipper, Satori. All great climbs. Just look at the classics on mountain project that's a pretty good run down. If Space Boyz and Snot Girlz are getting crowded then Satori might be empty, it stays less crowded due to longer approach but is super classic! I'll be down after Christmas. |
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Estrellita is also a lovely classic -- it may be listed as 5.11, but that pitch has a 5.8 variation, and with that variation the climb goes at soft 5.10. |
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I did estralita as my first climb at epc, and my first outdoor route after taking a few weeks off to rehab my shoulder. It's a gorgeous climb. Be careful of the easier climbs - the bolts are sometimes far apart, and if the climb is not popular, might have loose rock. |
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Do some single pitch routes at Mota Wall first to get accustomed to the rock. Snot Girlz is over on that wall as it is. There's some really good lines there. |
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Stich wrote:Do some single pitch routes at Mota Wall first to get accustomed to the rock. Snot Girlz is over on that wall as it is. There's some really good lines there.Actually, yeah, spending your first day cragging is probably a good idea. I'd have suggested some stuff in the Virgin Canyon, rather than the Mota Wall, but both are good choices. |
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+1 |
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David Gibbs wrote: Actually, yeah, spending your first day cragging is probably a good idea. I'd have suggested some stuff in the Virgin Canyon, rather than the Mota Wall, but both are good choices.This time of year you'll probably want the sun, and Mota doesn't go into shade like the other walls in narrow canyons do. But let the weather guide you there. |
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Stich wrote: This time of year you'll probably want the sun, and Mota doesn't go into shade like the other walls in narrow canyons do. But let the weather guide you there.I'm also Canadian, so perhaps more accustomed to climbing on cold rock. :) |
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Black cat bone |
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I worked as a guide down there for 3 years, during the busy season finding routes for clients is always a challenge but there are some great ones out there that are either hidden in plain view or just out of the way. |
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David Gibbs wrote: I'm also Canadian, so perhaps more accustomed to climbing on cold rock. :)I'll have to tell you the tale of the three visiting Canadian girls and the South African Girl and her Brit boyfriend. Late one night after heavy drinking, one of the Canadian girls threatens to use her kickboxing skills on the South African girl, to which she replies "If I tell him to headbutt you, you're fucking headbutted!" Apologies came over hangovers the next morning. |
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Stich wrote: I'll have to tell you the tale of the three visiting Canadian girls and the South African Girl and her Brit boyfriend. Late one night after heavy drinking, one of the Canadian girls threatens to use her kickboxing skills on the South African girl, to which she replies "If I tell him to headbutt you, you're fucking headbutted!" Apologies came over hangovers the next morning.Ah, drinking. Perhaps I should aim to moderate my consumption of tequila while down there. :) |
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Estrellita was my first climb at potrero. My partner and I liked the idea of summiting something on day 1, and it was quite easy. If you skip the 5.11 pitch, I think there are only three pitches of 5.10 and the rest are easier. The summit is wonderful and there are only 4 rappels. You can also link most pitches so it gets done in 6-7 pitches instead of 12. |
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Just wanted to thank everyone for the contributions. Had amazing moments in EPC and will come back this year for sure. |
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Good to hear, Alipio! What routes did you guys get on? |
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Super Nova |