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POWER-STUD Wedge ss 3/8" : Anyone use these bolts?

Original Post
Bolts and fun · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

Any reason these are too good to be true in hard limestone?

The price seems awesome. How do they compare to fixe 3/8" wedge?

POWER-STUD Wedge Anchor Stainless POWERS 3/8" X 3-3/4"
fastenmsc.com/p-99752-power…

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18,818

Contact Kevin Daniels at Fixe Hardware and ask him. Kevin has years of experience with bolts used in climbing.

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

You might check in the Bolting section of this forum and post questions there. Long as you don't mix metals (with these you'll need stainless hangers) I personally don't see why you couldn't use them. When I was in construction, I frequently had difficulty getting that design to catch and tighten up, but they were Red Heads and not Powers Rawl. and yeah, Kevin might have some input.

Tyler Phillips · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 3,195

Yes. These will work just fine. Although the countdown has begun until the glue-in argument and 5-piece argument comes into play. Thanks for the link. Gonna pick up a bunch.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I've used them in basalt.

General precautions for wedge bolts apply. You need a really clean hole. They aren't removable. I drill my hole extra deep to allow them to be pounded flush if they're ever replaced.

The threads effectively reduce the diameter of the stud. They are plenty strong though.

In hard rock they're probably fine. In anything soft, or softish, they really aren't a good choice. I hope that helps.

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
nicelegs wrote:They aren't removable. I drill my hole extra deep to allow them to be pounded flush if they're ever replaced.
Actually they are now removable thanks to Gregger Man. See the links that I posted here:

mountainproject.com/v/wedge…

However, I completely agree that over drilling is still a good idea as a back up.
Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

Yeah, they're pretty common. I've placed a couple of them. You can get them from climbtech climbtechgear.com/climbhard/ See what nicelegs said above.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I just looked up the strength. Depending on hardness and embedment, you'll get about 16 to 18 kN.

Definitely on the weak end of a good climbing bolt. Not likely to break but I won't be placing them in the future.

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,060

If your limestone is overhanging or you expect tons of hard falls on the bolts, consider using 1/2" ones instead (bit less than $2 ea from same place). The 3/8" are, as stated above, on the weak side of acceptable.

If you get some 1/2", you'll need either 1/2" or 12mm hole stainless hangers. Even though the bolts are 1/2", with the threads cut they just fit in 12mm hole hangers.

Greg German's methods may or may not work on future removal - stainless is a lot softer than carbon steel and the sleeve may not cut into the bolt enough when spun. But since stainless probably won't need replacement for a very long time, I'd bet some sort of core drilling or removal process will be standard fare for replacement that far out. Drilling the hole deep so the bolt can be sunk and patched is always a good call....OK, except when hand drilling granite!

Thanks for using stainless! That will save future rebolters from needing to work on your routes in a couple decades - hopefully 50+ years instead of 20!

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

They are fine in hard rock. Probably more suited for hand-drilling in a wilderness area than bolting a sport crag.

They should be more or less considered unacceptable in soft rock: the contact area of the wedge with rock is pretty small, and they will wear out, by pulverizing the rock in that contact area, surprisingly quickly.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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