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Climbing moab wet rock.....:(?

Original Post
Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

So my dog and I just passed through moab for a day, hoped to climb 12/3 but it rained all night 12/2.... Obviously I did NOT climb today and instead ran a trail with my dog, but as I left moab on east 128 I passed big bend and spied two boulderers working a ( granted overhung) Boulder less than 8 after the most recent downpour.... Any thoughts MP? I don't want to resurrect a dead topic but I am truly curious what would MP do? Should I have said something? Or does climbing wet boulders not merit the importance climbing wet routes does?

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

8* hours

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

Yeah. Way lame. Alot of people come here from out of town and don't honestly give a shit if they tear off all the holds as long as they have a fun trip. Then they leave. Thanks for not being that guy.

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

I guess when you drive a Black BMW X5 and your outerwear is worth more than my car you can climb on the wet rock whenever you want ....

Alex McIntyre · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 546

I haven't spent much time at Big Bend, but I remember that most of the harder problems climb big compression features (double aretes, etc) that definitely would not break even if they were soaking wet. Any chance they were climbing on those? I'd have no hesitations climbing on Hell Belly ( mountainproject.com/v/hell-… ) after a rain, for example. I don't see any way those features could break- I could be totally wrong, though.

Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

I spend spring through fall in Moab and see locals climb the day after rain all the time. Some people are just assholes and don't care about preserving routes for others. It is also sketchy/dangerous too...

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

Frankly you are wrong the right side of the arete just under the lip broke last year. Also there are two crucial crimps one on the side facing the road and one that you bump to the jug off. Second to last move the crux for real. If either of those broke it would still be the hardest v11 on earth.:)

Alex McIntyre · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 546

Good to know. I guess the quick look we took at it by headlamp wasn't enough to realize there were smaller features like that, I just assumed it was pure refrigerator squeezing.

justino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 319

when the rock is dry

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

It's tricky really. When we have just a little sprinkle then when it's dry is a good answer. When we get monsoons it can be harder to tell. Sand stone is porous so when the outside layer is dry what's underneath might not be. A good way to check is find a descent sized rock and pick it up . If it's dry underneath you are probably alright. All the sandstone around here is by its nature temporary let's not do anything to accelerate the process. There are so many cool places around here and tons of MTB trails if it rains go check out the sights. If it rains hard enough the waterfalls are ridiculous. Leave the rock alone

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

Agreed, let's not ruin climbing in Moab for future generations( or anywhere for that matter don't be a DEWSH). Leave wet rock alone and go do any other number of outdoor activities nature provides.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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