Gotta buy more stoppers, what kind?
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I generally climb Yosemite/Tuolumne/Tahoe granite. I'm climbing 10+ at this point and decided maybe I should place more passive pro. The cracks are getting thin in this range: |
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The Metolius brass nuta are a decent size and work well they are slightly offset |
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Dmm alloy and brass offsets are the best. |
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I say DMM offset brassies as well. I have a triple set of HBs, alloy and brass, and I think I have placed a stopper maybe 5 times since I got them, climbing in Red Rocks, Josh and Yose. |
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Peenuts are great in my opinion. |
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I just updated my micro stopper set too. You may want to fiddle with a few different brands of micronuts at the gear shop before buying. Seems like different brands can have real differences in shape (I've owned the small metolius brassies, HB/DMM offset brassies, and standard BD so those are what I know best), and the smaller cracks have a lot less room for finessing something that doesn't really match up, unlike you can often do with larger nuts. Thus, depending on the route, it can be a bit of a crapshoot regardless. I've found lots of places where I can get one brand in, but not another. |
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I climb around the same grade and area(s), i carry 2 sets of Dmm offsets and a set of peanuts. If it is a long route, i carry walnuts, they fit like nothing else in those sizes (just ask the follower who has to clean them!) Brassies are great for thin, but they fuse/fix easily, too. |
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Thanks for all the feedback so far. DMM brass offsets are pricey, ha. Maybe I'll just buy the larger half of the range. I'll go check them out in person first, though. |
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DMM brass offsets. Doesn't get any better for flared/pin scarred cracks. (Just my opinion. Climb in Eldo mostly.) |
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I carry Stoppers all the way down to #1 and a set of Peenuts. I find I reach for the Peenuts first most of the time, and recommend them highly. If I know it's a pitch that wants microgear, I'll add some DMM brass offsets as well. New England granite, gneiss, schist and conglomerate. |
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DMM Peanuts are really great stoppers. They are more durable than a brass stopper, especially if your second rips them out by pulling up on the draw/sling. I have a tiny Peanut I bootied off a route in the Beartooths that always seems to be the money piece when things get real thin. It's been a couple years since I was in Yosemite, but my partner had some new Peanuts at the time and I remember them working very well there. |
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MOAR OFFSETS. |
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Another vote for the DMM brass offsets. I take the two larger sizes on almost every climb for free climbing. So, yeah, maybe just buy the larger sizes. |
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another vote for DMM offset brass...i carry sizes 4,5,6 then 7 and up HBS. just took a lead fall (gunks) on the #4 and im 6'4 200lbs. its a small piece but at 7kn it is strength rating is higher than the red (5kn) or yellow (6kn) x4 just to put it into perspective. i now have complete faith in them. im interested in the peanuts after reading this thread. |
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The largest three DMM brass offsets are the only ones you will need. Don´t buy the whole set. |
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the brass on the small dmm actually deformed to the rock slightly in my lead fall. luckily it was on a single pitch route and lined up easily with the rap line. cleaning it involved a nut tool and a baseball sized rock to hammer it out. i could easily see these becoming fixed gear after a fall. i think they go for around 15 bucks a nut but considering their bomberness they are well worth it. as a side note...i find these small nuts easier to call bomber than small cams. visually when you get one set well its really easy to tell, sometimes with a small cam it can be a little tough for me to evaluate all the lobes....esp if its in there deep. |
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Linnaeus wrote:DMM Peanuts are really great stoppers. They are more durable than a brass stopper, especially if your second rips them out by pulling up on the draw/sling.If you don't want to spend your gas money replacing the micronuts, teach your second(s) NOT TO RIP THEM UPWARDS. [/petpeeve] |
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+1 gunkiemike. |
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Gunkiemike wrote: If you don't want to spend your gas money replacing the micronuts, teach your second(s) NOT TO RIP THEM UPWARDS. [/petpeeve]They will anyways, especially on harder climbs And if you climb with different partners alot, thats alot of retraining The micro offsets are especially bad for kinking of the wires if you fall on em and need to clean em without a hammer ;) |