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FIRST TIME MOUNTAINEERING, GEAR SUGGESTIONS

caribouman1052 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 5

Grab a pair of heavy fleece pants. Climb/ski/ hike in tights/heavy base layers & shells, and spend your time in camp with the extra fuzzy layer. You'll need it.

Danyl Britts · · Northern, VA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 80
caribouman1052 wrote:Grab a pair of heavy fleece pants. Climb/ski/ hike in tights/heavy base layers & shells, and spend your time in camp with the extra fuzzy layer. You'll need it.
Current winter setup, for our semi-mild Virginia cold/snow.

Ive included some photos of my current clothing setup.

Marmot Fleece (vintage Salvation Army scoop)
Mountain Hardware light down (unknown model, anyone have a guess?)
Mountain Hardware primaloft jacket (unknown model, any ideas?)
Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Bibs (I have an inseam of 32, these are 30..)
Sierra Design Hurricane Jacket / Pants combo for rain
REI Heavyweight baselayer pants
REI Power Dry long sleeve tops
REI Expedition socks

So here's my current setup. Both Mountain Hardware jackets were Attic Sale items at REI so i have no clue the model of jacket. The grey has Primaloft on the inside but the Orange jacket seems like an ultralight down or something. In combination they are great for the winter but I should consider one down jacket to do the warmth.

EMS has a house brand down for $130 with 700 fill.
Mountain Hardware Kelvinator is $180 with 650 fill.
Our gym has Mammut Peak down jackets is $180 with 750 fill.
Mont Bell Frost Smoke down jackets $198 with 800 fill
Any other suggestions for down in the sub $200 section.

I have been checking out the sales at Hudson Trail Outfitters, and am considering a few pieces from there if i don't order them online. Some power stretch mid-layers would be nice. HTO had Rab Power Stretch shirts for $40, down from $100. Just in Medium though.

Found some used rental gear online for cheap.
mountainguides.com/Merchant…

Mountain Harware Plasmic hardshell as a budget alternative, $150.
Not sure the best route to go for a hardshell. Something rugged I can pack on a regular but nothing to break the bank.
Rab Latok is on sale, around $200 wildernessexchangeunlimited…
Danyl Britts · · Northern, VA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 80

This jacket has Primaloft

Unknown Mountain Hardware Jacket 1

This jacket I believe is down, its super light.
Unkonwn Mountain Hardware Jacket 2, possibly down.

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
Danyl Britts wrote: Any other suggestions for down in the sub $200 section.
I believe the Mountain hardware subzero is somewhere around $200. Kind of bulky but superwarm.
J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

Uli steck uses 2 down jackets. Not that that matters, but the reason I mention it is that two down jackets are warmer than one and offer more versatility.

Personally, I've ditched fleece mid layers and bring a micro down sweater and a heavier down jacket.

This system works pretty well and it's a lot warmer than just one high loft down puffy.

You could definitely go with one primaloft and one down to split the weight wetness penalty. But unless it's going to hover around freezing or you like to sweat profusely in insulating layers, I don't see much advantage to primaloft.

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

Uli steck uses 2 down jackets. Not that that matters, but the reason I mention it is that two down jackets are warmer than one and offer more versatility.

Personally, I've ditched fleece mid layers and bring a micro down sweater and a heavier down jacket.

This system works pretty well and it's a lot warmer than just one high loft down puffy.

You could definitely go with one primaloft and one down to split the weight wetness penalty. But unless it's going to hover around freezing or you like to sweat profusely in insulating layers, I don't see much advantage to primaloft.

Nick K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 30

Mountain Hardwear gloves are where it's at. The Hydra Pros are warm, water proof, somewhat breathable and stunningly dexterous. Seriously, I bought a pair last winter for ice, and all of my climbing buddies that have tried them on have bought a pair. The MH Outdry tech just blows everything else out of the water.

I have one pair of super heavy gloves from OR that I bought for an expedition and never ended up using because a) the Hydras are awesome (I own a bunch of the variations too, like the EXTs which are nice for warmer weather), and b) it didn't actually end up being that cold.

I have the Patagonia DAS parka for a belay/not moving jacket, and I'm pretty happy with it. I like synthetics because I can put holes in them and not lose feathers. Of course, that being said, I have an MH ghost whisperer that I absolutely love, but is probably not the answer for New England winter climbing. That gets carried more for trail running and climbing shoulder season, or in warm alpine places (like the Cordillera Blanca).

I have a Rab Latok Alpine shell that I like, 5 or 6 years old and still going strong. Kinda heavy though, so it only comes out if I know I need to beat on a shell. I also have a Marmot Supermica that is absolutely fucking rad. 10oz claimed weight, pit zips, breathable, fully waterproof. And relatively cheap ($225 msrp). I'm on my second one, I gave away my first to a buddy in Peru last summer.

For the longer run, people love to talk about saving money on boots and buying a relatively cheap pair of plastic doubles. I say fuck that. Boots are worth spending money on, they make a big difference. I have a pair of Sportiva Baturas for one day climbs and warmer stuff, and a pair of Spantiks for the burl/multi-day. Yes that's $1200 worth of boot at MSRP, and no I don't regret a single dollar. As always with foot wear though, fit is king. Scarpa makes solid boots too, I can't speak to any of the other brands.

For tools, I have BD vipers for the ice and alpine, and a BD raven ultra (the super light one), for the odd occasion when I want a piolet.

DavisMeschke Guillotine · · Pinedale, WY · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 225

These are just my opinions based on what I've seen in this topic.

1. Jetboil won't work in colder temps or at altitude. Plus, the extra hassle of warming up the isobutane just isn't worth it to me. Go with something like a Whisperlite or other white gas stove. Don't use it inside the tent.

2. I'm sure you've been told (I hope) to not wear jeans or khakis.. Go with a waterproof softshell pant (Rab makes awesome gear) or hardshell bib if you're considering more serious stokage.

3. I'm not a fan of softshell jackets. With companies like Mountain Hardwear and Rab coming out with waterproof/windproof/breathable fabrics, I think softshells are obsolete.

4. In terms of sleeping pad, what's wrong with closed cell foam? My Z-Lite was $20. Put a cut piece of painters tarp underneath to protect you should you accidentally roll off.

5. A decent pair of glacier glasses, though not really required, are nice. You'll need some kind of UV blocking shades. Snow blindness es no bueno.

6. You're gonna want gaiters.

7. Fleece? Not for me but to each their own, man. There's much better fabric choices out there that are warmer.

8. Those dreds are going to get in the way no matter where you put em.

Cheers

grubbers · · West Shore · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0
DavisMeschke wrote:3. I'm not a fan of softshell jackets. With companies like Mountain Hardwear and Rab coming out with waterproof/windproof/breathable fabrics, I think softshells are obsolete.
I've found that Neoshell and the other very breathable waterproof fabrics still don't breath nearly as well as a softshell or hybrid shell jacket. Not to mention Neoshell is not windproof and after a season of hard use the jacket may not be waterproof anymore.
DavisMeschke Guillotine · · Pinedale, WY · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 225

NikiWax DWR coating is a beautiful thing :) You should also look into MHW's Dry-Q Elite. They're doing gnarly stuff for alpine climbing, especially in the realm of lightweight, breathable, wind resistant, and waterproof.

Cheers

Danyl Britts · · Northern, VA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 80
Stagg54 wrote: I believe the Mountain hardware subzero is somewhere around $200. Kind of bulky but superwarm.
Ya seems pretty warm but discontinued as of now. Outdoor Gear Lab shows a newer model but its got less loft. Perhaps a Patagonia DAS Parka ($200) or

J. Serpico wrote:Uli steck uses 2 down jackets. Not that that matters, but the reason I mention it is that two down jackets are warmer than one and offer more versatility. Personally, I've ditched fleece mid layers and bring a micro down sweater and a heavier down jacket. This system works pretty well and it's a lot warmer than just one high loft down puffy. You could definitely go with one primaloft and one down to split the weight wetness penalty. But unless it's going to hover around freezing or you like to sweat profusely in insulating layers, I don't see much advantage to primaloft.
Great information, thanks for sharing. I do enjoy the feeling of a fuzzy fleece midlayer but the combination of jackets I currently own is pretty warm. The versatility of two down jackets seems pretty logical.

Limiting how many layers I zip up and down is something I do want to take into consideration. Two or three layers of jackets could seem like a nuisance at times. The less I have to take on and off the better. On that note, how do people feel about base layers/ mid layers that half zip or 1/4 zip?
Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10

a quarter/half zip baselayer is awesome on a hot day on a glacier or perhaps even on a cold day if hauling heavy loads...

I highly recommend a 1/2 or 1/4 zip. Doesn't add much weight but adds lots of versatility.

samualrc · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

Check out mountaineering freedom of the hills And anything by mark twight. They will explain systems and gear and the pros and cons of things. Outdoor gear lab has the best reviews although they don't always have the latest stuff.

Rico Tan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 100

MSR Reactor is the best stove I've used for mountaineering. I used it on Shasta , and Whitney near the summit without any problem at all. 50mph wind without a windscreen doesn't affect the stove much. Make sure you put your hands on the fuel canister to warm it up a bit if the canister is too cold and half empty. I also put the fuel canister I'll use in the morning inside my sleeping bag to keep it warm.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

Quit buying gear and go climb something! Just pulling your chain a little but seriously - the only way you will ever learn what works and what doesn't is to get out there and use it in the mountains. You currently have better gear than the early Everest climbers - buy a ticket and take the ride!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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