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Leashed to Leashless

Original Post
angus Morrison · · carbondale, colorado · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 25

I have some older DMM Fly's that I would like to convert and get rid of the stupid leashes. Does anyone know if the Grivel pommel and trigger will fit my tools? On the Grivel site it says the pommel fits any flat spiked Grivel tool, Wiil this work on my DMM's? I would love to hear what I can do to convert my tools to a leashless setup. Thanks

Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

angus,

A DMM Fly (Only ice tool DMM's ever made that works well) with a finger hook on the bottom won't give you much of a leashless experience so be sure not to judge leashless by what you experience with that rig. Here's how to get the most out of it though:

The Grivel gizmo will likely hook on the bottom of the Fly but you'll probably have to shim it or frig it a bit to make it solid. Then, a hand-span above that, put on one of the Petzl Trigrest finger rests for a second grip. Between the two grips, open spiral a 1/4" strip of skateboard grip tape for a glue-like grip. A second open spiral above the upper grip will feel like magic as well.

That grip tape will chew your gloves so, until you can afford some real leashless tools, wear cheapo gloves.

Swing 'em 'til you see sparks,
Mal

Bryan Ferguson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 635

"Swing 'em 'til you see sparks" Love it!

Greg Miller · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 30

As an alternative to skateboard tape, might look at temflex tape:
homedepot.com/p/3M-3-4-in-x…
I just got some, and have been happy with the grip it's provided so far, won't grip quite as well, but shouldn't rip up your gloves as much. Look for it with the electrical tape at your local home depot.

angus Morrison · · carbondale, colorado · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 25

Thanks for the tips fellas, I climbed with some Petzl Quarks on the Redstone pliiar last year and felt they were magical. The trigger finger is a must. I just loved to flick the tool right where you want it. I was just wondering if the Grivel trigger was worth getting. I guess you think the Trigirest is best Malcolm. It dose look sweet. Do you think I can get away with just Trigirest and no Horn on the spike? I was going to get both but it would be nice to still be able to plunge the shaft if I had too.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

+1 to what Mal said. A straight-gripped tool like the Fly can indeed be used leashless, but you'll likely find that you end up crushing your pinkie at the base of the grip (your weight bears down hard this way). A trigger for the index finger, once it's properly adjusted (VERY critical that it be not too close and not too far), does wonders to provide support for the downward load. If you can't adapt a commercial piece for this, a hose clamp and conduit clamp from the hardware store can be rigged quite effectively.

angus Morrison · · carbondale, colorado · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 25

Thanks for the idea Gunkiemike! I know about the pinky crush(OUCH!) I learned on some OLD 50 cm straight chouinard tools. They were impossible to hook with and you bashed your knuckles with almost every swing. Who has retro fit tools? I Want to about some mods to get my tools more rad.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Here's my 1st Gen. Quarks:

ANGUS WIESSNER · · Denver Colorad · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,638

We should climb together some time is ur name really Angus

Ted Angus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 25

Dudes, Angus is best as a last name.

Matt Murphy · · Pearl River, NY · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 215

Mike. How long do you bake the bubble gum and at what temperature?

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Silly Wabbit, bubble gum's pink.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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