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Mountaineering Ax

Original Post
Brady3 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

I have only done rock climbing thus far, but a friend is wanting me to join him for a winter hike of Beirstadt and Evans. And I would like to get more into mountaineering, so I feel it's appropriate to get an ax (I have most other gear I need for short trips other than snowshoes/skis). But there are a variety of options and I have never actually used one before.

So what should I be looking for?
I know length is based off my height (about 5'6")
And I know an adze is useful for cutting steps (I've seen some with hammers and I'm guessing I would get more use out of an adze than a hammer)

I don't plan on doing technical ice anytime soon, and if I do I would probably just get dedicated axes for that (some appear to be an attempt at blending the two? [ergonomic handle for easier swinging but tougher plunging rather than the classic straight handle])

And feel free to correct any of my assumptions, I am new to this aspect of climbing

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

No need for a traditional mountaineering axe unless the terrain is steep enough that it requires use of hands (for balance, not upwards ascent). I haven't climbed Bierstadt or Evans in the winter, but I don't think there's anything that falls into that category, although it's certainly route dependent.

For those climbs, if you're a strong and competent hiker, I suspect you would be better served with trekking poles and a pair of good microspikes or crampons, depending on exact conditions.

WDW4 Weatherford · · Houston · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 176

I haven't climbed either peak and don't know if an axe is necessary for the route you'll be doing, so your call there. A good first axe for snow routes is something with a straight (or mostly straight) and longish shaft, (guideline: hanging from your hand while standing it should just touch the floor) with a non-aggressive pick angle (closer to 90 degrees from the shaft) and an adze.

I use the BD raven and it works well, but there are lots of other good options. The adze is definitely good to have for digging a deadman anchor. The wider pick is good for self-arrest.

One note on the neck (where the head meets the shaft): a neck narrower than the rest of the shaft, like the BD raven, is more comfortable to hold, while a neck the same thickness as the shaft, like the Camp Corsa, is more convenient for tying (and mainly untying) a quick clove hitch onto while in a rope team.

Jeremy Riesberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 5

Those mountains are not steep enough for the need to bring an axe. Take trekking poles to aid with the post holing you will likely encounter.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

I recommend checking out 14ers.com AND the facebook 14ers.com website to get more of they basic info you are looking for.

Brady3 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

Thanks for the replies.
I wasn't sure if it an ax would be necessary for those mountains or not, but I also haven't heard from the friend in a few days so not sure it's going to happen anyways.
Though I do still eventually want to do more mountaineering and will want one then.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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