Flexor tendon/forearm pain

I have an inflammation in--what I think--are the flexor tendons where they attached to my arm. About 2/3s the way up my inner arm from my wrist under the "meaty" part of my forearm. If I hang from a hangboard it causes pain.
I'm correct to guess this is not golfer's elbow?

Besides rest, ice, and anti-imflammatorys are there any other exercises or things I can do to help heal or prevent this problem in the future?

Golfer's elbow is a common term for medial epicondylitis, or an inflammation of the bone on the inner portion of your elbow where the flexor muscles of the hand/wrist attach. The area in which you are experiencing pain is more in the belly of the muscle of the flexor muscle group, and is therefore slightly different (assuming that you have no tenderness/pain at the aforementioned medial condyle), and likely a muscle strain. It is not uncommon to experience pain in both the belly and origin (beginning attachment of the muscle) when incurring damage to either.
In terms of how to treat, and how to prevent, you are on the right track with the ice and rest. I would also recommend some myofascial release/massage to the area as well as subsequent stretching/eccentric contraction of the flexor group. This will ensure proper alignment of new scar tissue that your body is laying down to repair the damage of your tendon and/or muscle strain. Haphazard deposition of scar tissue can cause chronic pain and dysfunction. I would recommend having this done by someone with experience so that you do not do more harm than good--in the early stages of injury, there is a fine line to walk with inflammation management.
In the future, dynamic warm ups prior to climbing; static stretching post climbing; regular myofascial treatments (muscle stripping, cross-friction--again, consult a professional in your area. You should be able to do this yourself when trained.); and rest days should help keep this condition at bay.
Injuries happen, and cannot be 100% prevented, but you can reduce the risk by taking care of yourself prior to strenuous activity.
Best of luck and speedy recovery!
Alan S, Certified Chiropractic Sports Physician

I've had very similar pain, off and on, for years. Sometimes debilitating, but that's when I was younger and dumber and climbed through it. I've never gotten a strong diagnosis for this as it doesn't fit typical forearm climbing injuries. I thought for awhile it was a "compression syndrome," but believe now that its something along the lines of previous poster - severe muscle strain.

What's helped me - warming up, like crazy - I spend 1/3 of my gym sessions warming up now; never climbing to failure - sure recipe for pain to return; not climbing at my limit in gym - I never develop this pain when purely climbing outside; avoiding slopers in gym; Armaid - has been pretty magical, when I have the discipline to use it regularly; also, eccentric wrist drops/curls - eccentric exercises have also brought back a severely damaged Achilles from running, lower back pain, etc...they are the bomb.

Good luck, and I look forward to seeing what this thread turns up.

Does anyone else have more info on this? I have this same issue and got diagnosed with a forearm muscle strain. I'm not 100% sure the doc knew what the issue was exactly though. I've had the issue to varying degrees in both arms. It was mostly gone for a few months, but now it came back since I've been climbing hard lately. I really want to continue getting better, so this rest and easy climbing is no fun. Is there any advice on curing it and preventing it? What causes this issue?

Pontoon wrote:Does anyone else have more info on this? I have this same issue and got diagnosed with a forearm muscle strain. I'm not 100% sure the doc knew what the issue was exactly though. I've had the issue to varying degrees in both arms. It was mostly gone for a few months, but now it came back since I've been climbing hard lately. I really want to continue getting better, so this rest and easy climbing is no fun. Is there any advice on curing it and preventing it? What causes this issue?

A little update...sticking with the regime above - mostly - I have been able to get back to climbing hard, at least for me. What I've added since then...Flrex Bar eccentric exercises. these work real well. I'm bouldering more too, but static moves. Finally, I think moderate hang boarding has helped. As soon as I start doing big, uncontrolled moves bouldering, not warming up, not prehabbing with flexbar and arm aid..its back. Not sure its a good enough regime to boulder/sport climb hard but it has at least helped me to climb moderate trad pain free again...and the pain was intense before. In the end, I think you gotta pick a (pr)rehab program and religously stick to it. Like for months, to see results. Best of luck to you.

And not getting enough sleep...

Muscrat wrote:And not getting enough sleep...

That too...And not to blow this up into a diet/nutrition thing...but, I did change my diet, from very high carb to basically slow/no carb, high saturated fats and lots of greens...lost 20lbs...but equally as important, chronic inflammation issues also went away. Not claiming causation, but there was certainly correlation. As said above, i had to get religious about warming up, prehab, and staying within my limits, amongst other things...interestingly though, i still cranked running without those precautions, and some chronic inflammation, bursitis, etc... went away. Not sure if it was the cause, but I am twenty pounds lighter, chopped an extra couple grades at the same time...but maybe i'll die of high cholesterol or something...but last blood check said i was stellar all around. who knows. All i can say is the very displined warm, pre/rehab, etc..regime works if you stick with it.

One of the best things I've done for my numerous elbow and tendon issues is start taking chelated magnesium. It's helped so much i have to remember to stretch. I've bought all the bars, balls etc and honestly it's helped the most for my issues.

Additionally fish oil and tumeric help as anti-inflammatory aids.

Scott McMahon wrote:One of the best things I've done for my numerous elbow and tendon issues is start taking chelated magnesium. It's helped so much i have to remember to stretch. I've bought all the bars, balls etc and honestly it's helped the most for my issues. Additionally fish oil and tumeric help as anti-inflammatory aids.

Second Scotts recommendation. Magnesium was crucial to overcoming achilles bursitis, and I take religiously now. I also take fish oil and turmeric, the special blend, as well. Agree, i think nutrition gets discounted for how powerful it can be as an anti-inflammatory, etc...

To update as I'm the OP.

The issue was severely reduced in about 6 weeks of time and and now ten months later there are no real issues and I'm stronger than before the injury. For three weeks after the problem came on I hardly climbed or did so at a completely reduced level. I was pretty religious about doing eccentric exercises and pushups & I think these helped.

After a month I started climbing harder stuff again but no bouldering at all. After another month I started to ease into bouldering and other training.

Thanks Sheets! That's super reassuring. What exercises did you do besides push ups? How long after you stopped climbing temporarily did you start rehabbing it?