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Tommy Knocker- South Face
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C1+
Avg: 2 from 4
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Routes in Tom-Tom Tower Area
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Reach Around- Tommy Knocker to Tom-Tom Variation, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tom-Tom Tower- North Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Tom-Tom Tower: Zeitgeber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tommy Knocker- South Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+ |
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Tommy Knocker--Tomfoolery T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 360 ft (109 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | James Garret & Chris Donharl, January 2000 |
| Page Views: | 1,380 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | IanA on Apr 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1: 40m Begin on the towers south face. Climb up and right on loose rock, then up 5.9 left-facing corner. Continue angling right to a large ledge. Traverse right and build a belay at the base of a left-facing dihedral.
Pitch 2: 25m Climb up 5.9 left-facing dihedral on excellent finger jams. Pull over short rotten section and move right and build a belay below a wide crack at the saddle between Tom-Tom and Tommy Knocker.
Pitch 3: 20m Follow 4 bolt ladder with a few placements in between to a few free moves and a two bolt anchor on a ledge at the bedding seam.
Pitch 4: 29m Walk right along bedding seam and climb first groove to a 5.10 off-width to the summit. Belay off fixed anchor.
Descent: Two double rope raps. Rappel to the top of pitch 1 then to the ground.
Pitch 2: 25m Climb up 5.9 left-facing dihedral on excellent finger jams. Pull over short rotten section and move right and build a belay below a wide crack at the saddle between Tom-Tom and Tommy Knocker.
Pitch 3: 20m Follow 4 bolt ladder with a few placements in between to a few free moves and a two bolt anchor on a ledge at the bedding seam.
Pitch 4: 29m Walk right along bedding seam and climb first groove to a 5.10 off-width to the summit. Belay off fixed anchor.
Descent: Two double rope raps. Rappel to the top of pitch 1 then to the ground.
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