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Cardiac Arete (aka Talisman)
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in The Wizard
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Cardiac Arete (aka Talisman) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Yellow Brick Road T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Laeger & Miledi |
| Page Views: | 936 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The distinction between this route and the "Golden Needles" is unclear to me. I thought they might share the first pitch, and then Golden Needles veers slightly left whereas this route follows the bolt line up. That's one possibility anyway. The other is that Golden Needles begins somewhere else?
The climbing is good - a reasonably well-protected climb up a completely rad system of ribs, scoops, and aretes.
This begins on the SE corner of the Wizard, just across from Piranha and Parasite in the same alcove from which they begin.
P1: Climb up scoops and ribs of rock past an old bolt and several new bolts to a good belay stance. Slightly run out, 5.10.
P2: Continue up the incredibly steep face and arete past many closely spaced bolts. Tread lightly through a couple cruxes on a few friable holds and flakes. Rap back down from a two-bolt anchor.
I think we got down with a single 70m rope, but don't quote me on that.
The climbing is good - a reasonably well-protected climb up a completely rad system of ribs, scoops, and aretes.
This begins on the SE corner of the Wizard, just across from Piranha and Parasite in the same alcove from which they begin.
P1: Climb up scoops and ribs of rock past an old bolt and several new bolts to a good belay stance. Slightly run out, 5.10.
P2: Continue up the incredibly steep face and arete past many closely spaced bolts. Tread lightly through a couple cruxes on a few friable holds and flakes. Rap back down from a two-bolt anchor.
I think we got down with a single 70m rope, but don't quote me on that.
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