Anyone want to climb ice this weekend?

Trying to get out on some climbs on Mount Washington or in Crawford Notch. I have two screws, so I'd need to pair up with someone with a few more screws. I feel comfortable leading WI3, but I'd prefer to get on a WI2 route as it's the beginning of the season. Maybe Shoestring Gully or Wiley's Slide will be in better shape by this weekend.

Anyone game? I live in Burlington and have two seasons of ice under my belt.

Definitely appreciate the enthusiasm to get on some ice, Trevor! Unfortunately, I think you're going to be hard pressed to find anything decent up there that won't be thin and sparsely protected. The warm spell the past two weeks hasn't been doing us any favors. You're best bets will most likely not be in Crawford Notch but up in Huntington's. The gully's are climbable, but, as hinted at before, require a sound mental game. I would recommend Odell's. This is definitely an interesting time of year to climb some ice!

For what its worth, here's what I have learned about the hunt for early season ice:

-If you are going to climb a route, you must climb as if soloing the route. Protection will do little this time of year- unless you can find rock gear.
-Even if you know you are capable of soloing the line in normal conditions, doing so in thin conditions is, mentally and technically, much more difficult.
-If you commit into climbing a thin, early season route and find yourself wishing to retreat, this is not so easy, as v-threads are typically not a viable option.
-Belay anchors can be difficult to find, making soloing or simul-climbing a safer option. Of course, that is only if all members of the party are of sufficient proficiency and experience level.
-For the most part people climbing the 2's and 3's in the early season are those who are very comfortable leading climbs that exceed these in difficulty.

Hope this helped, Trevor! Best of luck if you make it out this weekend!

Thanks for the tips, Charlie! I presumed the conditions wouldn't be ideal, but I saw some conditions photos from a guide service's facebook page (Adventure Spirit Rock + Ice + Alpine Experiences) that showed more favorable conditions than I anticipated. Also, temperatures seem to be at a consistent low all of this week, so that will work in my favor.

I'll check out Odell's for sure!

Just checked out shoestring this morning. There is a total of jack shit up there... looks like we may have some below freezing nights ahead of us though. maybe by the weekend itll be in better shape. but your best bet is definitely in Huntingtons.

Edit: Just read Charlie's comment. Great advice in there.

I would think the only reason to pitch out Shoestring would be to do one of the harder rock finishes.

I ended up finding a partner already for Huntington, but I will definitely post back conditions and photos to both Mountainproject.com and Neice.com

Thanks for the enthusiasm and early season ice tips.

I did shoestring on Sunday, the only real ice was on the M3 finish variation, but even that was thin. We soloed everything but the final pitch. The majority of the route was scratchy and spicy. I'd recommend going somewhere else.

Great day out in Huntington Ravine yesterday, climbed Pinnacle Gully. Climbed the right side of the first pitch, which ended up being hollow, poorly formed ice. Far superior ice quality on the center and left side of P1. Some running water at times, but not as spicy as I'd anticipated.