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> Upper Pumphouse…
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> Ultimates East
The Lorax
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 13
votes
Routes in Ultimates East
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Battle of Who Cares, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Beachcomber, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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End of the Line S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+ |
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Face Tat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Great Circle Route S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grizz goes to Unicorn Mountain S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hitchhiker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hyperborea T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Instant Ocean T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Iron Horse S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Knot What It Seams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lorax, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Marshmallow, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Old Tomato T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pony Express S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pump Drunk T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sucker Pump T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sugar Cube, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sullivan's Travels T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Teddy Bear's Picnic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Through the Truffula Trees T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Too Lame to Dumpster Dive T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V4 6B |
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Trees Do Not Go Home T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Twinkie, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ultimate Dihedral T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ultimate Frisbee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ultimate OW T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ultimate Something T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ultimator, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Waikiki T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | D. Mabe / J.Snyder 11/2014 |
| Page Views: | 3,355 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Wiled Horse on Dec 1, 2014 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This "neo-vintage" moderate adventure climbs a buttress-like feature dubbed the Treehouse near the middle of the Ultimates of Pumphouse Wash in three unique pitches.
It's shortish, brownish, oldish, and chossy
but speaks with a voice that is sharpish and bossy.
It's not about what it is, it's about what it can become. UNLESS someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. It's not.
Pitch Once-Ler - 5.9+, 85': Face climb the blunt and featured arete, with decent pro, biggered by 3 bolts. Crux is rather sequential, but is mostly mental. Head right, for a steep thin hands trihedral of a seemingly detached pillar (though it is also possible to go straight up through a brushy crack instead). Belay at a nice perch with 1 bolt and gear (#1C4).
Pitch Two - 5.9+, 85': Is for you, to do! Beautiful featured splitter fingers to chimney, layback, and stemming! Also keep your left eye open for pro opportunity near the top. Belay on a nice saddle with two bolts. One of three best pitches on the route!
Pitch number tree - 5.9+, 90': Tip-toe the exposed sandy ledge to a nice lower-angled big-fingers corner, and Truffula Jug.
Not to be a nag,
but watch for drag.
#hashtag sandbag.
Head for the intimidating blocky roof with jams and jugs and even jam-jugs too!
Charge on through is the thing to do!
Finish with a fairly steep big hand crack and bulge to the top. Belay at the tree.
It's shortish, brownish, oldish, and chossy
but speaks with a voice that is sharpish and bossy.
It's not about what it is, it's about what it can become. UNLESS someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. It's not.
Pitch Once-Ler - 5.9+, 85': Face climb the blunt and featured arete, with decent pro, biggered by 3 bolts. Crux is rather sequential, but is mostly mental. Head right, for a steep thin hands trihedral of a seemingly detached pillar (though it is also possible to go straight up through a brushy crack instead). Belay at a nice perch with 1 bolt and gear (#1C4).
Pitch Two - 5.9+, 85': Is for you, to do! Beautiful featured splitter fingers to chimney, layback, and stemming! Also keep your left eye open for pro opportunity near the top. Belay on a nice saddle with two bolts. One of three best pitches on the route!
- Move the belay by stepping around the block to the right, and follow the ramp to generous 3-bolts still in sight. 4th class.
Pitch number tree - 5.9+, 90': Tip-toe the exposed sandy ledge to a nice lower-angled big-fingers corner, and Truffula Jug.
Not to be a nag,
but watch for drag.
#hashtag sandbag.
Head for the intimidating blocky roof with jams and jugs and even jam-jugs too!
Charge on through is the thing to do!
Finish with a fairly steep big hand crack and bulge to the top. Belay at the tree.
At the far end of town
Take the road to North Nitch,
turn left at Weehawken and a sharp right at South Stich.
Where the canyon of Pumphouse bends to the west,
where the grickle-grass grows above the forest.
turn left at Weehawken and a sharp right at South Stich.
Where the canyon of Pumphouse bends to the west,
where the grickle-grass grows above the forest.
Thneeds
Rack two of blue to blue - C4#.3-3.
A C4#4 is handy,
especially just above the crux roof dandy.
Some nuts, #6-10 HB offsets,
takes care of the rest.
60m rope, half-dozen slings,
a few quickdraws, and your favorite sandcastle things.
A C4#4 is handy,
especially just above the crux roof dandy.
Some nuts, #6-10 HB offsets,
takes care of the rest.
60m rope, half-dozen slings,
a few quickdraws, and your favorite sandcastle things.
Getting down
Unless you are committed to the "Lorax Loop",
you can get back down by rapping this route.
...kind of. The first rap you will have to swing to the ledge (90'). The second rap drops into the Sandbox, though aim for the crook of a giant tree (80'), and pull your rope through the glippity glup and schloppity schlopp. The last rap goes to ground (110'), and is more comfy with a 70m rope.
you can get back down by rapping this route.
...kind of. The first rap you will have to swing to the ledge (90'). The second rap drops into the Sandbox, though aim for the crook of a giant tree (80'), and pull your rope through the glippity glup and schloppity schlopp. The last rap goes to ground (110'), and is more comfy with a 70m rope.
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