Mejor No Hablar de Ciertas Cosas

P1 - P5) Start up the rotten gully for about 600 feet. We simuled it but you could pitch it out. There are bolt anchors about every 40 meters as you go. You will rappel back down this gully. All of this is maybe max 5.8 and mostly even easier than that (5.8, 200m).

P6) At the end of the gully, walk right and up dirt/rock ledges to the saddle. Climb the low angle dihedral (5.8) to the end an do a rather improbable traverse around the back side of the mini tower (5.9) to get to the main headwall and belay on bolts (5.9, 50m).

P7) Here's where the good rock starts. Pick the crack on the far right at the end of the ramp/ledge. It starts as thin hands but is mostly fingers in a flare, much like Lumpy Ridge 5.10 or maybe 10+. At the ledge, walk left and keep going up the obvious crack another 50 or 60 feet to the sloping ledge below the hand crack to OW pitch. Belay on bolts (5.10c, 40m).

P8) Climb the hand crack to OW, then step left to a little ledge and belay on good bolts (5.10d, 20m).

P9) Step right and go up a long corner with some loose blocks until you reach a ledge with a fixed pin belay (5.10b, 50m).

P10) Climb a short pitch with tricky, small gear, and then step left to a big ledge (5.10c, 20m).

P11) Climb a low angle hand crack (5.9, 40m).

P12 - P14) Scramble up low angled terrain to the summit (5.6 - 5.8, 80m).

DESCENT: Rappel the route back down the splitter headwall to the left of P9 & P10. You might want to do single rope raps (with a 60m rope) in some spots to avoid a stuck rope. From the bolted anchor at the base of the headwall (2 fatty rings) rap climber's left into the gully (single rope rap). Do two more single rope raps or a double rope rap back to the flat dirt area above the original gully. Rap the original 600' gully in 4x 40m raps off of pretty good anchors. Be ready for rock fall and stuck ropes the entire time. Rapping could easily take as long as climbing this route if you have troubles. You also might want to rap with the rope coiled in saddle bags, especially in the gullies.

Approach from the trail that leaves the back right corner of the refugio. It takes about 45 minutes to get to the base of the route.

Bivy: There is a pretty nice bivy at the end of the choss gully before going around the little spire that gets you to the headwall. Basically, if you're standing at the base of the v-slot on P6, turn around and look on the north side of the massive perched boulder. You will be well protected from rock fall here and there is a wind wall already. You would also be comfortable sleeping on the massive ledge at the end of P10.

Standard rack of Camalots up to #4 (doubles from #.4 to #3), a set of aliens or equivalent, nuts and two 60m ropes. An extra #4 or #5 Camalot is optional for the OW pitch.