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Great Arch Stone Mountain

Matt Coffey · · Raleigh, NC · Joined May 2009 · Points: 10
nbrown wrote:Anyway, I wanted to mention another option to gain the tree ledge that no one seems to have brought up yet. It's not in the guidebooks though. Starting on U-slot, diagonal up and right along the ramp features to the left-facing corner. Follow it to the top of Crystal Lizard. Probably only 5.4, and well protected by Stone standards.
I was looking at that option last time I climbed uslot and wondered if anybody did it before. Looks like a fun little traverse.

Speaking of traverses, anyone climbed the girdle traverse of the whole south face, called Spiderman Swings South? Starts to the right of GF and heads to the oasis (i think) then to the top of the 1st pitch of No alternative, over the arch and then keep going until you can down climb on the far left. You can follow the route pretty easily via the topo looking at the bolts and features. Looks interesting.
P. Sully · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 350

I was at Stone recently and climbed Block Route & No Alternative.

Both routes could use some gardening; lots of grass and small trees growing in the crack at the start of Block Route and the section of crack just before the crux move. We weeded some and we climbed by but I never remember it being this bad.

No Alternative's first pitch was downright unpleasant with the amount of briars and weeds growing our of the left facing flake/corner. What I remember as an enjoyable, easy 5.5 pitch now has some bush-wack cruxes and makes for unpleasant climbing.

but to answer the OPs question Block Route gets my vote, even with the weeds growing out of it.

Entrance Crack is easy if you stay out of the crack. You can get gear about 15 - 20' above the ledge (pink tri-cam) and then run out by climbing to the right side of the crack on easy slab.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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