Face/slab shoes
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A couple of months ago I led this route mountainproject.com/v/dinku…, which was a 200 foot slab/face pitch, wearing a well broken in pair of Tenaya RAs (slightly down-turned sport shoes). The pitch demolished my left ankle, and I developed a blister so painful that I had to stop climbing for a week. This was traumatic. |
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5.10 Stonelands Slippers. They are stiff, climb face and slab awesome. They have a bit less angle in the heel, will probably alleviate your issue a bit, and they're on clearance at five ten's website right now. |
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theres a big difference between friction slab ... and face climbing which many folks call "slab" |
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I would say I'm looking for a shoe that is good at both of those styles. I'm friction smearing, and climbing edges on vertical terrain. |
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Yuuuup Stonlands nice and stiff comfy like the Mocs |
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Can't beat the mythos for slab and all day comfort. I can't tell a difference edging until you get to super desperate, 12- moves. |
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Are there 5.10 Stoneland slippers for women? |
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Not as far as i know and they are discontinued so grab em while they're cheap |
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Stonland vcs are still manufactured and fit small. |
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That blister is hideous. You are obviously having fit issues with the shoes you are wearing. A blister like that should not happen, under any circumstances, in a pair of shoes that fits right. Note that this does not just mean the correct size for the type of climbing you are doing, but also the correct shape of the shoe to match your foot. The fact that your RAs are a snug downturned sport shoe should not cause this issue; the issue is probably instead because the heel cup on those shoes is wrong for you. You should find a good shop where you can try on a bunch of other shoes to find one that is right for you; pay attention to the heel cup, since that is your trouble area, and it is also a particularly difficult part of the shoe to fit properly. |
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Were you wearing the Anasazi Pinks? I think that the new ones fit much better than the Blancos, and they're terrific for thin face and slab climbing. |
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i love my evolve addicts. they are slip-ons so they're super easy to get on and off and are really comfortable and i have never had any problem edging on them, although i don't do a lot of smearing so i can't say i know about their performance there. i would suggest getting a slipper type shoe for comfort, judging by the look of that blister. |
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Be Esperanza wrote:I would say I'm looking for a shoe that is good at both of those styles. I'm friction smearing, and climbing edges on vertical terrain.A flat, pointed toe, moderately stiff shoe For pure friction a softer shoe generally works better as you can get better surface conact when smearing However for face climbing the ability to stand on crystals and dime edges requires a stiffer shoe with a more pointed toe Something like a katana velcro would work decently for both styles ... Or something similar that fits YOU What fits folks here may not fit you at all And if you get blisters like that your shoe doesnt fit you properly ;) |
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Here's a video to complement your blister photo: |
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Thanks for the all of the replies and helpful suggestions. Several people have mentioned that the shoes I'm wearing are wrong for my heels. Based on the picture I can understand this sentiment, but I feel like the problem stems more from wearing the wrong shoes on the wrong climb. I liked the shoes, and have subsequently bought another pair. Granted, I will probably relegate them to strictly bouldering, sport climbing, and single pitch trad shoes. |
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JCM, that's why I recommended the Stonelands. I have had the same issue as the OP, though not nearly as bad, and I found the Stonelands to have a completely different heel than the Anasazi's and fit much more secure ad comfortable. I recommended the slipper over the velcro's due to it being the stiffest of the line. My favorite shoe, bummed it's discontinued, but I snagged a couple backup pairs. |
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A short-term solution is to put vaseline or some lotion that lubricates (even sunscreen) on the heel. Before putting on my Evolve Shamans (also downturned), I often will also put the grease on the top-side of my toes. By doing so, I can keep them on for several pitches without a break. |
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Be Esperanza wrote: I've owned many pairs of muiras and katanas in the past. I like La sportiva, but I've always felt like the toe rubber wears out too quickly ... At any rate, I will probably go with something La Sportiva, maybe the Muira. I haven't owned a pair in years so that might be fun to rediscover them.Also note that if you haven't worn the Miuras in a few years, then the rubber that is on those shoes now will be different than what it was last time you wore those shoes. The new rubber, the XS Edge, is harder, and you will likely find better durability. |
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5.10 galileo (think they're on clearance right now) or 5.10 anasazi laces have been my go-to granite shoe for the face and smeary stuff, fitting them right is critical, too tight and you can't smear/your feet die by the end of a tenuous face route (read: I climb slow), too big and the heel doesn't fit/will much with your foot and be shifty. |
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Find them ,,steal them or trade for a pair of Acopa merlins..the best. |
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Do they have Anasazi Pinks for women? |