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Face/slab shoes

Original Post
Brian E · · Western North Carolina · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 348

A couple of months ago I led this route mountainproject.com/v/dinku…, which was a 200 foot slab/face pitch, wearing a well broken in pair of Tenaya RAs (slightly down-turned sport shoes). The pitch demolished my left ankle, and I developed a blister so painful that I had to stop climbing for a week. This was traumatic.

Recently I've been getting more interested in this style of climbing, and I've been wearing an older pair of 5.10 Anasazis. The shoes are super comfortable, but they're not very stiff, and continue to rub my heel at the tender spot. Does anyone have any recommendations for an all day shoe that is capable of performing well on face and slab? I'm interested in the La Sportiva Tarantula, but I really don't know anything about it.

ankle woes

Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

5.10 Stonelands Slippers. They are stiff, climb face and slab awesome. They have a bit less angle in the heel, will probably alleviate your issue a bit, and they're on clearance at five ten's website right now.
Link To Shoes

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

theres a big difference between friction slab ... and face climbing which many folks call "slab"

the question is are you smearing, or are you trying to edge on microedges and stand on tiny crystals

;)

Brian E · · Western North Carolina · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 348

I would say I'm looking for a shoe that is good at both of those styles. I'm friction smearing, and climbing edges on vertical terrain.

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

Yuuuup Stonlands nice and stiff comfy like the Mocs

marty funkhouser · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 20

Can't beat the mythos for slab and all day comfort. I can't tell a difference edging until you get to super desperate, 12- moves.

Short Beta · · Troy, MI · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 45

Are there 5.10 Stoneland slippers for women?

Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

Not as far as i know and they are discontinued so grab em while they're cheap

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

Stonland vcs are still manufactured and fit small.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

That blister is hideous. You are obviously having fit issues with the shoes you are wearing. A blister like that should not happen, under any circumstances, in a pair of shoes that fits right. Note that this does not just mean the correct size for the type of climbing you are doing, but also the correct shape of the shoe to match your foot. The fact that your RAs are a snug downturned sport shoe should not cause this issue; the issue is probably instead because the heel cup on those shoes is wrong for you. You should find a good shop where you can try on a bunch of other shoes to find one that is right for you; pay attention to the heel cup, since that is your trouble area, and it is also a particularly difficult part of the shoe to fit properly.

I would recommend looking into brands other than 5.10 and Tenaya. Each brand seems to have a certain general fit type across their line, with mild variation in fit between models. The result of this is that if one model from 5.10 causes you trouble, their other models probably will as well. For my feet, the 5.10 and Tenaya fit is totally unwearable, due in large part to the heel, but the heel on Sportiva and Scarpa is great (again, for me...it is all individual). Maybe this will be true for you too? In any case, try on a wide range of shoes, from many brands, to try to get a feeling for what does and does not work for you.

In the Sportiva line, give particular consideration to the Miura (lace) and the TC pro for the sort of climbing you are looking to do; both make for fantastic general-purpose trad shoes and can perform at a high level, yet still are comfortable if fit correctly. If you are looking for stiffness and edging performance (i.e. since you say the Anasazi is not stiff enough), skip the Tarantula; it is generally a lower-performing beginner shoe. Scarpa has many great shoes as well, but I am not sufficiently familiar with their current line to recommend a model.

Nick Grant · · Tamworth, NH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 424

Were you wearing the Anasazi Pinks? I think that the new ones fit much better than the Blancos, and they're terrific for thin face and slab climbing.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

i love my evolve addicts. they are slip-ons so they're super easy to get on and off and are really comfortable and i have never had any problem edging on them, although i don't do a lot of smearing so i can't say i know about their performance there. i would suggest getting a slipper type shoe for comfort, judging by the look of that blister.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Be Esperanza wrote:I would say I'm looking for a shoe that is good at both of those styles. I'm friction smearing, and climbing edges on vertical terrain.
A flat, pointed toe, moderately stiff shoe

For pure friction a softer shoe generally works better as you can get better surface conact when smearing

However for face climbing the ability to stand on crystals and dime edges requires a stiffer shoe with a more pointed toe

Something like a katana velcro would work decently for both styles ... Or something similar that fits YOU

What fits folks here may not fit you at all

And if you get blisters like that your shoe doesnt fit you properly

;)
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Here's a video to complement your blister photo:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=257ulh06BJA

Brian E · · Western North Carolina · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 348

Thanks for the all of the replies and helpful suggestions. Several people have mentioned that the shoes I'm wearing are wrong for my heels. Based on the picture I can understand this sentiment, but I feel like the problem stems more from wearing the wrong shoes on the wrong climb. I liked the shoes, and have subsequently bought another pair. Granted, I will probably relegate them to strictly bouldering, sport climbing, and single pitch trad shoes.

I've owned many pairs of muiras and katanas in the past. I like La sportiva, but I've always felt like the toe rubber wears out too quickly. I've also owned several pairs of Scarpa Vapor Vs, and love them. However, on multi-pitch granite they hurt! I would take them off at every belay, and still would cringe when I had to put them back on.

At any rate, I will probably go with something La Sportiva, maybe the Muira. I haven't owned a pair in years so that might be fun to rediscover them. Still, if you have other suggestions I'm open other options. The only 5.10s I've ever used are the Anasazi or the mocs. I'm just curious if I'm missing something...

Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

JCM, that's why I recommended the Stonelands. I have had the same issue as the OP, though not nearly as bad, and I found the Stonelands to have a completely different heel than the Anasazi's and fit much more secure ad comfortable. I recommended the slipper over the velcro's due to it being the stiffest of the line. My favorite shoe, bummed it's discontinued, but I snagged a couple backup pairs.

Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 8,196

A short-term solution is to put vaseline or some lotion that lubricates (even sunscreen) on the heel. Before putting on my Evolve Shamans (also downturned), I often will also put the grease on the top-side of my toes. By doing so, I can keep them on for several pitches without a break.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Be Esperanza wrote: I've owned many pairs of muiras and katanas in the past. I like La sportiva, but I've always felt like the toe rubber wears out too quickly ... At any rate, I will probably go with something La Sportiva, maybe the Muira. I haven't owned a pair in years so that might be fun to rediscover them.
Also note that if you haven't worn the Miuras in a few years, then the rubber that is on those shoes now will be different than what it was last time you wore those shoes. The new rubber, the XS Edge, is harder, and you will likely find better durability.
frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

5.10 galileo (think they're on clearance right now) or 5.10 anasazi laces have been my go-to granite shoe for the face and smeary stuff, fitting them right is critical, too tight and you can't smear/your feet die by the end of a tenuous face route (read: I climb slow), too big and the heel doesn't fit/will much with your foot and be shifty.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Find them ,,steal them or trade for a pair of Acopa merlins..the best.

Unless you can find an old pair of Boreal Vectors and resole them

Short Beta · · Troy, MI · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 45

Do they have Anasazi Pinks for women?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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