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No Wimp Situation
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.3 from 7
votes
Routes in The Playground
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Battle of the Mind, The V4 6B R |
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Black Slide S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chinook S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crack of the Past T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crack the Whip S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Darys' Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Emerald Epitaph S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fine, Feral Friends S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Flyer T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Istari T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lady of Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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No Wimp Situation S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Playing Hookie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Problem Child S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Professor Plum With The Candlestick In The Conservatory S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pulling the Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Radagast T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X |
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Silmarillion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tag aka Push Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, TR |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,084 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Luc Gruenther on Oct 28, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
Just a few feet right of Silmarillion is this 3-bolt route up a very thin crack. The first bolt is a bit higher than most first bolts at Castlewood, but it requires only fairly easy climbing to get to. The thin, 1-move crux at the first bolt is followed by 5.10ish climbing to the 2 anchor bolts. The anchors are not visible from the ground, but they're there. Keep in mind that the anchor bolts are not rap/lowering compatible...they're the same hangers as the ones on the route. Have the second climber clean the route and walk off to the right or walk to the top to clean up your equipment at the anchors.
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