Cheyne's Salathe IAD. How?

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	Kirk L · Nov 26, 2014 · South Lake Tahoe · Joined May 2010 · Points: 140 I was just looking at the most recent RnI issue about some of Cheyne Lempes El Cap/Patagonia accents. I was just browsing through the post about getting aid soloing dialed, methods for shortfixing for nose IAD kind of stuff and it sounds like the way its all being done is a Grigri. I've tried to use a Grigri for aid and free climbing as a self belay method in the past. I've used it modified and unmodified and would agree with a lot of the posters that the rope just doesnt feed that smoothly. I got inspired to post after seeing a picture of Cheyne on the first pitch of the Salathe (attached). I realize the guy is quite the athlete and is likely just performing better than I ever will but I am hoping that some of you may know of some tinkering that I could do with my methods to make free climbing 5.10 (like the picture) feel a bit easier. Anyone have diagram of the method he may be using? 0 Flag Quote
	Kevin DeWeese · Nov 26, 2014 · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981 Can't tell from the photo but he's probably using a pdl with the grigri rather than having the grigri feed as he climbs. 0 Flag Quote
	Mark Hudon · Nov 27, 2014 · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420 Cheyne is a pretty safe climber. I'm sure he essentially used a PDL with the Gri-gri but he's also very smart and probably calculated where he could safely climb up to and fed out only that much rope. That 10c photo in the picture is totally within his comfort zone. 0 Flag Quote
	Colin Simon · Nov 27, 2014 · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 370 Picture's fake. Cheyne Lempe doesn't use ropes. 0 Flag Quote
	Optimistic · Nov 27, 2014 · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450 Mark Hudon wrote:Cheyne is a pretty safe climber. I'm sure he essentially used a PDL with the Gri-gri but he's also very smart and probably calculated where he could safely climb up to and fed out only that much rope. That 10c photo in the picture is totally within his comfort zone. Sorry, what is a pdl? Personal destruction limiter? :-) 0 Flag Quote
	divnamite · Nov 27, 2014 · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 90 Pakistani Death Loop. 0 Flag Quote
	doligo · Nov 27, 2014 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264 0 Flag Quote
	Kevin DeWeese · Nov 28, 2014 · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981 From Cheyne's blog, "At this point I have two options. I can either put myself on belay with a gri gri, and feed myself out slack, or use the pakistani death loop." cheynelempe.blogspot.com/20… 0 Flag Quote
	Optimistic · Nov 28, 2014 · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450 kevin deweese wrote:From Cheyne's blog, "At this point I have two options. I can either put myself on belay with a gri gri, and feed myself out slack, or use the pakistani death loop." cheynelempe.blogspot.com/20… Ahh. I see, thanks. I.e. a belay anchor, but no belay. THAT is not a method I'll be using anytime soon. 0 Flag Quote
	doligo · Nov 28, 2014 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264 kevin deweese wrote:From Cheyne's blog, "At this point I have two options. I can either put myself on belay with a gri gri, and feed myself out slack, or use the pakistani death loop." cheynelempe.blogspot.com/20… Like it says either belay with a Gri Gri OR use the PDL. The key word is OR. Not PDL with a Gri Gri, which stops making it PDL??? Plus, by definition you can't PDL on the first pitch. 0 Flag Quote
	Kevin DeWeese · Nov 29, 2014 · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981 Lol. 0 Flag Quote
	Mickey Sensenbach · Nov 29, 2014 · San luis obispo CA · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 140 He blows my mind! Crazy crazy things he has done!! 0 Flag Quote