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Singapore cragging and Malaysian bigwalls (don't laugh yet)

Original Post
ACR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 590

Looking for anyone living in Singapore or traveling through here who wants to put in the time and effort for a few first ascents. I have all my gear over here and ready to go. Full trad rack, FA gear, portaledges and haul bags, enough for me and one or two partners.
I'm going to be here awhile so let's get after it!
Some things on the wish list:
The Dragons Horns on Tioman island (10 to 12 pitches, granite)

New routes on Kinabalu on the island of Borneo. Unlimited potential here, just some crazy red tape to sort through... I'm a patient man. (cragging and wall routes, granite)

Exploring around KL in Malaysia (somewhat developed but fun for sure! Limestone)

Contact me through Mountain Project. If your traveling through I might even be able to host you for a short stay. Let's talk.

Dean Hoffman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,125

Yo! My little sister and husband are moving to Singapore in a few days. I hope to visit them in the coming few years. If yer talking long term plans lets be in touch!
Dean

ACR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 590

Sure thing! Long term, short term, it's all good. PM me when you get a chance. I'll be here and will continue to collect information on the logistics.

J Cunningham · · Lander, WY / Yosmite · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 25

sent you a PM ACR

jlr climb · · Glasgow, Scotland · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0

Hiya,

I'm traveling to Taiwan for work in early July, and then I'm looking to go to Borneo (potentially flying into Kota Kinbalu) for some away time. Roughly, I'm thinking the dates I'd be there are July 14 - 21. I probably won't have confirmed dates for about two weeks I've been eyeing Kinabalu (and scuba diving too), but I have no set agenda other than to play outside.

Happy to try to work something out with ya for a few days. Cheers, jody

reginawu · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

Hey there,

My name's Regina. I'm going to be in KL around July 9th to do some climbing in at the Batu Caves and on the 12th I'm heading to Tioman. I won't have a climbing partner with me. Are those sites pretty popular around this time of year? I hoping to make some friends and get some climbs in.

Cheers,
Regina

ACR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 590

Batu will be pretty good if there is no haze from the recent (ongoing) fires in Indonesia. As usual, it will be hot and sticky and probably a bit buggy. Bring plenty of water, sunscreen, and mosquito spray. We even bring mosquito coils and burn them at the base of the wall. The coils make it bearable to belay at the base of the route, up high it's ok.
The Damai wall will be nice. Nayamuck wall has some great harder lines (but the name means "mosquito" in Malay so plan accordingly).
Tioman has been difficult to get to lately (from Singapore anyway) due to the intense haze we've been having. The flights were canceled for over a week. There is only one airline that flys from here and only one flight per day. We were not informed of our flight cancelation last Friday until we were at the airport (bummer!) so plan ahead.
The ferry from Malaysia is probably a pretty sure bet. I think it runs unless there are bad storms.
I'll try to post a picture of the topo for a cool slab climbing spot on Tioman. Info for the dragons horns is harder to find. I'm trying to get a handle on it now.

ACR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 590

There are many fine new routes going in at Dairy Farm quarry lately. There seems to be a dedicated group of local climbers who are looking at our limited walls with new eyes and finding some surprising new lines.
Tons of effort go into first ascents in the Jungle... The crew is doing fantastic work and I will try to post the new beta soon. Also, they are replacing many (if not all) of the old bolts with bomber 12mm stainless hardware. Good show!

reginawu · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

Hey,

Thanks for all the beta, especially on the mosquito and flight advice. I'm sure it'll be a huge help. I might go with that climbing company, but it's a little pricey for my budget. I've read a little on the slab climb on Tioman; I've never climbed anything like that. I hear its crimpers and tiny pockets all the way up; it sounds like a sweet challenge. If you get the chance, that topo would be awesome. Thanks again for all your help. I really appreciate all the info. If you're ever planning a climb in Taiwan, hit me up.

Cheers,
Regina

Mitch Hoffman · · Fonda NY · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 220

ACR-I recently moved to Singapore and have been making the best of the local climbing, but am looking to explore Malaysia too. Sent you a PM

Qx Cheang · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Hi all,

The last msg is in July 5th and I'm not sure if anyone is still interested to share information or climb Dragon Horn.
I live in Singapore and constantly traveling looking for new places to climbs, be it big walls or cragging.

email me and hook up.

Cheers
Qx
qxadventures.com

ACR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 590

Hey,
Sorry for not getting back to some of you. I've been busy lately.... Blah blah blah.

I'm still up for a shot at the dragons horns. I'm waiting until the dryer season rolls around. I've talked to Dave Alcott who recently sorted out the anchor issues on waking dream (great job Dave!!!) and to Tham who lives at the base of the spires. Getting their is easy and getting to the base is now about as good as you could ever hope for in the jungle. Contact me if you're up for something in March or April.

kweino Weingarten · · Seattle, WA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

Qx and ACR

I'm teaching in Vietnam and have spring break coming up
March 29- April 5, and would love to give the horns a shot if you need a partner. Shoot me a PM and let me know if you're interested/available.

Cheers!

Qx Cheang · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Hi ACR,

What are the anchor issues? Badly bolted? I would appreciate if you could share some contacts of Tham or the locals there.

Temperatures in Malaysia now is soaring and it seems like the great time to be on the wall.

Hi Kweino,

Unfortunately, March 29th - April 5th I will be in China, Liming, climbing so horns will be out for me.

Cheers
Qx

kweino Weingarten · · Seattle, WA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

Oh awesome Qx!! I was in Liming this past October. What a place!!! I'm a little jealous because I want to go back so badly!

Bring lots of tape and have a killer time. It's some of the best rock I've ever climbed.

ACR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 590

I will be in Thailand climbing for a few days mid-March but should be around at the end of the month. I will try to contact some friends on Tioman to see about the weather outlook. It should be OK though. Singapore hasn't had rain for 27 days now and that is a disturbing new record. The only good thing about that is Dairy Farm Quarry is dryer than I've ever seen. Time to do all those wet slimy routes!

Waking Dream was recently cleaned up and rebolted by a top-notch team of expats based in Singapore. They made 3 or 4 weekend blitz trips and put in tons of work. Belays are great (SS marine grade glue ins) as are all the necessary lead bolts.

Nate Ball · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 11,254

Hello! A flock of us from Taiwan will be heading to KL and Singapore over this coming Chinese New Year (Feb 13-23). We are planning to do some climbing around KL on the nearby limestone, then heading out to Tioman for five days or so. It would be really awesome to get on the big stuff out there. I've been doing some development/FA's here in Taiwan, and the adventure is addicting.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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